June 2, 2022

Ok guys, I have been getting a lot of questions regarding the assembly of the RhinoRacing C-LSD. It seems a lot of people are feeling a bit intimated by it since it “looks” complicated, but the reality is, it’s not. I will break this down into steps, and hopefully it can make things a bit easier for those who want to make the switch.

If we break these down into sections, it’s not all that bad. We’ll go step by step, and you’ll see it’s not very complicated at all. Just a bit of a heads up, I am experimenting with a different type of lubricant, so until I do further testing, I would recommend using some sort of grease. I have been using Lucas Tacky Red Grease which is my go to for just about everything that needs grease.

NOTE: I know these are not the best images and the parts are not cleaned nor greased. I decided to take some pics while I had everything apart as I just tore this diff down to degrease and test a new lubricant. So please excuse the dirty mat and parts.

Here’s the official EXPLODED view:

Pay attention to the order and the fine details like the groove/flat side.


I will call these the drive gears for lack of a better name. These are the pieces that stick out of the sides of the C-LSD and the drive cups connect to. There is a thrust bearing in between them, to keep them spinning freely.

The main area of concern is, you want to make sure you install the bearing races correctly. There is a smooth side and a side with a groove. The side with the groove always faces the ball bearings. Make sure to pack the bearing with some sort of grease.

Here it is, all assembled. make sure to install the bearings on each side. These will seat into the cap plates.


The RhinoRacing C-LSD is supplied with 2 different spring sets. A heavy set for later diff lock, and a light set for early diff lock. I am going with the heavier set since that is what I am experimenting with at the moment.

If my memory serves me correct, I believe the lighter spring set measures in at .16mm, the heavier at .20mm. You can visually see the difference if you look carefully, but I always measure since I don’t want any funny business going on. It would be really hard to detect. If you are going to run the 4 pinion configuration, you would just do both halves this way. 

If you are going to run the 4 pinion configuration, you would just do both halves this way. 
Hint: The springs like to fit best flat, so when installing them, the less angle you have as you are placing them in the opening the easier they will slide in.

Here is the completed set of end caps and heavy springs. It is setup for the 8 pinion configuration.


These are the 3 pieces that seem to get people a little nervous. Let’s take care of that right now.

This is the pinion assembly. You basically side one gear and one spacer on to one shaft.

Not looking so bad now, right?


Nothing to it.
Note: I would grease everything as I am installing them. It’s easiest to get into all the little spaces before you have it completely assembled.

On the next step, you will install the next pinion assembly on the opposite side of the spring. These work in pairs, so you will install them opposite of each other. Gear on the bottom / Spacer on top for one, and the other will be Spacer on the bottom / Gear on the top. I have left the second gear off for clarity.

This would be the pinion gear setup for a 4 gear configuration. I would not keep the extra springs installed if I were running a 4 gear setup. I’m sure it’s fine, but I would always be concerned they would eventually work their way out of the seat.

Add 2 more sets and now you have the 8 pinion gear configuration. Notice I alternate gear on bottom / spacer on top throughout the assembly.

Now you slip the diff housing over the entire assembly. I then carefully pick it up and install the other cap plate. It takes a little “wiggling” of the cap plates to get everything seated. Just be patient, it will eventually all go together.

Once it goes together, insert the screws and lightly snug them up. make sure everything spins freely. no binding or grinding. Once you confirm everything is in working order, you can go ahead and tighten things down. RhinoRacing recommends using a small amount of thread lock (I think I read somewhere), but I don’t use any and I haven’t had any issues. YMMV

Put the drive cups on, drop the pin through, locking the drive cups to the drive gear shafts. The pins are held in place with the bearings which support the C-LSD. That’s it!!!

These are the plastic blades I use on the driveshafts.

Some have expressed concerns that the diff is not smooth when turning it by hand. Below is a video of my completed RhinoRacing C-LSD. Depending on the grease you have chosen, it may or may not spin this freely, but it should spin free, with no grinding.

Hope this helps some of you out.