1. I’m not sure this if for me. I just want to get my feet wet for the smallest investment.
  2. I can’t enjoy the activity if I can’t be competitive, but let’s keep the cost minimal.
  3. I’m the type who believes in investing early on, and saving in the long run.
  4. I’m the type who wants the best of the best. 

At least one of the above statements seems to apply to most of our customers. I would suggest being honest with yourself and at least use this as a guideline. We see people come in all the time and sell themselves short, only to reinvest in the correct equipment within days or weeks of their original purchase.

Again, just be honest with yourself and you will save a lot of time and grief. We see it ALL THE TIME.


2. I can’t enjoy the activity if I can’t be competitive, but let’s keep the cost minimal.
This is where the majority of you will fall when you are first getting started. The mindset is simply, you want to keep up with the guys you see on the track or on the videos. You want to enjoy the competition side of it if you get the urge, but it’s not on the top of your list at the moment. The basic idea is to get some decent equipment and have a good time.

In this area, we would highly suggest looking past the RTR (Ready to Run) kits and get yourself a kit you need to build. This serves a few purposes. First, it lets you know exactly how the car works, you will be putting in each and every part, screw, bearing, etc. This means you will know where each part goes, what it does, and most importantly, you will know when it’s not working correctly and how to fix it. Even if you are a beginner, you will be surprised how much this teaches you and how it’s not as bad as it looks. It can seem intimidating, but trust me, you can do it. Usually R/C Drifters are always willing to help a brother out.

Most of the kits in this range will be plastic for the most part. Don’t be fooled, the plastic chassis are more than capable to take the podium at any event. As long as the set-up is correct, you will be a force to reckoned with. There are many brands and models in this area, to list a few you might want to consider: Yokomo – Drift Package, Drift Package Type-C, and DIB RS. MST – FXX-D. 3Racing – Sakura D3 and Sakura D4. Of these listed, the Yokomo Drift Package and Type-C have the largest aftermarket support BY FAR. Followed by the Sakura D4.

Of the above listed, if you want to go RWD (Rear Wheel Drive), Yokomo sells a RWD Conversion Kit for the Drift Package and Type-C for an additional $150-$200. The Sakura D4 has the option for either RWD or AWD depending on the kit you choose. The FXX-D is RWD only. For AWD (All Wheel Drive) the Yokomo DIB RS comes 50/50 and is easily changed to CS by changing the rear spool and belt. The Sakura D3 comes CS (High CS Ratio 2.14) Which means it is a little challenging to drive for the beginner, but there are ways to make it more forgiving or even convert it to 50/50.

So in this range we have the following chassis and set-ups:
Yokomo Drift Pacakge w/ RWD Conversion Kit
Yokomo Drift Package Type-C w/ RWD Conversion Kit
3Racing Sakura D4 RWD Kit
Yokomo DIB RS
3Racing Sakura D3

Keep in mind, just about any chassis can be made to run RWD. Some are easier than others, but it can be done. Just know going into it, it takes some experience and know-how to successfully convert a chassis not designed to be RWD.

Also, because these are not RTR chassis, they do NOT include all the electrics, battery, charger, or control. This is actually a good thing. Total cost to get a complete set-up where you can be up and running is in the $500 range. However, for the additional couple hundred you spend over an RTR set-up, you end up with something you wont be outgrowing in a month. You also get to choose where you want to spend the extra and where you want to save. For example, you might want to spend a little extra to get a nicer control and/or steering servo. You also get to choose which body you will be running.