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Overdose HG Version 3 Dampers

December 18, 2020

Overdose High Grade Damper v.3 Kit

Legendary 
That seems to be the most fitting way I can start this off. The Overdose HG (High Grade) Dampers have just been released in their Version 3 form. It’s no secret, I’m a huge fan of these dampers. For me, it is the standard in which all other dampers are compared. I have yet to find another damper which even comes close in my opinion. That is not to say there are no other dampers which perform as well, but when it comes to performance, design, and build quality, the OD HGs are second to none. Let’s take a look at the version 3s.

The attention to detail is always present with Overdose products

Attention to Detail 
If you are familiar with Overdose products, you are aware the attention to detail is incredible. The v.3s are no exception. The time around OD has machined the Spring Retainers and Shock Caps for a more unique look. Not to mention, weight savings. Another feature of the new design which I like is being able to see the top of the shocks though the newly cut windows in the cap. This helps when you are adjusting the shock length to see exactly where things are at. Another difference I found when comparing to the v.2s is the v.3s are now shipping with 6 hole .6mm pistons which is what most of us would purchase along with our HGs to begin with. Looks like Overdose has been listening.

Quality 
Overdose quality stands above the rest and the v.3s don’t disappoint. In fact, I didn’t see a difference in the overall design other than cosmetic. Then again, if it’s not broke, don’t fix it. The HG shocks have some of the tightest tolerances I have come across in the R/C Drift game. So much so, you MUST use their specially formulated shock fluids. When I first became familiar with the HG dampers, I picked up some MST #5 Mineral Oil since I didn’t have any OD fluid. What a mistake! Using the MST shock fluid didn’t allow the shock to compress at all. As it turns out, OD partnered with Wako Chemical to produce their special formula for use in their HG Dampers. It is claimed to not attack the O-Rings as aggressively as the other shock fluids, as well as to maintain it’s viscosity with the changes in temperature. I have found my dampers will last a year or more with no noticeable change in performance.

A unique approach to the overall assembly. It works fantastic

The Assembly 
If you don’t like E-Clips, then you will love OD HG Dampers. They use a screw to hold the piston in place instead of using 2 E-Clips. If you are like I am, and you swap pistons often, you will appreciate this feature. Another feature is everything loads from the bottom, piston and shaft included. Every component is of the highest quality, something I really appreciate.

Full adjustment comes standard – Adjustable Length and Locking Preload

Adjustability 
I have heard a few people complain about adjusting Overdose HG Dampers, and I can never figure out what they are talking about. The only conclusion I can come to is they are not using them correctly, because of the many sets I have owned, they have all been great.

Overdose give us an adjustable top which has an O-Ring inside to keep slight pressure on the threads and keeps it from free spinning. I use the adjustable shock length often, and this is a huge feature for me since I can use this to corner-balance rather than to use the preload adjustment (That’s a topic for another discussion). In addition, they also have a locking screw on the preload collars. This is genius since the preload collars can be very loose (Easy to turn) when adjusting, but snugged up once the preload is set. This translates into extremely easy preload adjustment, but also once the collars are snugged up, it provides a easy place to get a grip on to adjust the damper length. It also provides a great reference point for adjusting either. 

NOTE: When using the locking screws, they just need to be “snug” they are small screws and are not meant to be cranked down on. Also, if you leave them completely loose and take a couple laps to test, the screws will be gone the next time you look at them. You have been warned.

My Favorite Feature 
If there were 1 single feature of the HGs that I feel puts it over the top for me, it is the design of the body itself, and the method for closing up the dampers. With all other dampers, the bladder itself has many different ways to be installed. Everyone has their own method that works for them, (Some better than others) but the HGs are fool-proof.

You all should know how to fill dampers with no air

Step 1 – Fill with Overdose Damper Fluid. I won’t bore you guys with what you should already know, so just make sure you get the air out and fill just OVER the ledge inside. I have found I don’t need to use a shock vac for these.

I use something with a blunt tip, whatever hex driver I have handy works

Step 2 – Insert the bladders and gently submerge them. Allow the fluid to come over the top edge and inside of the bladder. DO NOT press the inside surface of the bladder, ONLY the thick outer edge. Otherwise you will force excess fluid out and over the bladder, and you will have uneven dampers.

Gently, slowly submerge the bladder by working your way around the outer edge

Step 2 Continued. Note, just the thick edges, never the middle. Make sure the bladder is resting completely flat on the ledge.

NEVER touch the sides, only the middle of the bladder. It doesn’t need to be completely dry.

Step 3 – Use a piece of tissue or paper towel to soak up the fluid FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE BLADDER. NEVER SOAK IT UP FROM THE EDGES. If you soak up from the edges, it will wick fluid from underneath the bladder and cause air to be introduced to your dampers.

It doesn’t need to be completely dry

Step 3 Continued. Remember, only soak up the fluid from the middle of the bladder.

Install the caps. No need to make them super tight, just enough is fine.

Step 4 – Install Caps. It’s a simple process since the bladders are set inside of the shock body, and there is no way you can mess this step up. Just gently thread in the cap and tighten it down. Since you aren’t fidgeting around with the separate bladders, caps, and shock mounts, all while trying to make sure the bladder doesn’t move, it’s the most fool-proof design I’ve used so far. 

Conclusion 
The Overdose High Grade Dampers are my favorite, hands down. I appreciate the build quality, tight tolerances, and the functionality. They are extremely consistent, which is something that separates my top damper choices from the rest. The Version 3 seems to be a cosmetic update and for those who love Overdose, will find these to be a must have. Overdose listened to what the people wanted, and now provides their dampers with what is likely the most popular configuration for the pistons. Some have said there is a 1mm increase in length. Unfortunately I cannot confirm or deny this, as someone bought my v.2s before I could measure. Overdose quality, engineering, and design. Yes, I am a fan. They are a little pricey, but this is one product I feel I can see where my money has gone.

SEE YOU ON THE TRACK!

GET THEM HERE!

APLASTICS DROPS E60 M5 and 180SX S15 STRAWBERRY FACE 11/28/2020

Looks like APLASTICS does it again with a couple of bodies! The M5 (E60) looks very nice for a 4 door euro! The Strawberry face 180sx features a 180sx with a S15 front end. Similar to the infamous Signal Auto twins from back in the day!

Gyroless – The Purest Form of R/C Drift

From the first time I ever tried RWD R/C Drift, I was told that I MUST use a Gyro. Just like most of you out there, I thought, “I’ll do it without a Gyro.” I tried, failed, and learned to drive with a Gyro. 

There are a few theories as to what the Gyro does, but it seems the obvious is always ignored. Here are a few I hear often:

The Gyro does all these micro calculations that your brain is too slow to process and your hand is too slow to use effectively. It’s impossible to drive without.

The Gyro doesn’t do much. It just simulates the full scale car’s natural tendency to have the steering return to center.

It’s impossible to drive RWD R/C Drift without a Gyro because you are not in the car and you cannot feel when it starts to break traction.

These all sound great and gives us all a good reason to use Gyros guilt-free.
We have all tried to turn the gyro to zero, spun out uncontrollably, and realized we couldn’t even drive straight. This was enough to convince us that the above statements were true. 

(Side Note: A Gyro set at Zero Gain still provides some assist.)

RWD R/C Drifting is the most realistic form of R/C Drifting since this segment had started many years back. The scene has gone through many phases: It has gone from 50/50 (AWD), to Counter-Steer (CS – Overdrive the rear wheels and use the front wheels to keep from spinning), to what we have today, RWD (Use Gyro to keep the car from spinning).

Let’s go back to the first time you drove RWD and how strange the Gyro felt.
Anyone who’s been around from the beginning, or even if you haven’t, the first time you tried to drive RWD, you instinctively tried to counter-steer. (I’m sure everyone here remembers this moment) You either were told or taught yourself to “Let the Gyro do it’s thing”. You flicked the car, held the steering in the direction you wanted to go, and got on the throttle. You practiced that, got better at it, and that is what you do to this day.

You instinctively knew what you needed to do to keep from spinning, but since you had in your head you must to use a Gyro, you unlearned what your instincts were telling you. I know I did. This was the pivotal moment in which you went down the path of Gyro Assisted RWD R/C Drifting.

I tried to do Gyroless a few years ago.
A few years back I had a DIB Version 2 (Purpose built Counter-Steer chassis) that was converted to RWD. Back then the chassis weren’t quite figured out yet and all the RWDs were some sort of conversion or pieced together to get more steering angle. I practiced for a few weeks and was able to turn some laps. Wheels were shaky since I was trying to mimic a gyro and using my steering to keep from spinning. The gyro only affects the steering, right? This was my mindset anyway.

As close as I was, I really wasn’t close at all. The steering geometry wasn’t quite right, and my thinking wasn’t going in the correct direction. Luckily my remote lost it’s ability to control dual servos, and I was forced to abandon the project and slap a gyro in. My thinking was flawed the entire time I was doing this. I thought I needed to mimic what the gyro was doing. I couldn’t be more wrong.

R/C Drift Keeps Progressing
As with everything else, R/C Drift is always progressing. Technology advances and things get easier. Chassis now take advantage of the torque generated by the motor as it tries to twist. Chassis designs now use this force to generate more traction. Steering geometry is now more precise and has a huge adjustment range. Gyro technology has advanced greatly, even allowing some to run at 100% gyro gain. Servos are now specifically spec’d out to work with gyros. We have come a long way. With every advancement, the cars become easier and easier to drive.

What are you trying to say?
The modern day R/C Drift Chassis has become very refined. Very different from what was available to us 4 years ago. Steering geometry has become more optimized for what we are doing. Suspension has a lot of options. We are basically working with some very tunable chassis. So much so, they can be driven without Gyro assistance.

In order of preference: Futaba GYD550, Overdose/Ko Propo DAIS (KGX), Yokomo V4

So what exactly does a Gyro do?
I’m not claiming to be an expert, but I have learned what exactly the Gyro is doing as I headed down the path of Gyroless drifting. Forget what you have been told over the years. Simply put, a gyro does what a gyro has been doing for years, keeping whatever it’s connected to in a controlled state. RWD R/C Drifting is no different. In our case, it takes over the counter-steering aspect of driving. (Once you can drive without a Gyro, it is obvious just how much the Gyro itself is doing)

Remember when you first tried RWD Drift? You naturally wanted to counter-steer, but you had to let the gyro do it’s thing. Well, you taught yourself to ignore the need to counter-steer. It’s really that simple. A more accurate statement would be, it is an aid that keeps your car from spinning due to the inability to keep the front and rear of the car in a balanced state. You are aiming the car in the direction you want to go, and the gyro is making small adjustments to keep the car from spinning. The more throttle input you give, the more the rear of the car comes around. The gyro adds more counter-steer (prevent spinning) in addition to your steering input (desired direction).

Ask yourself this:
Why can’t you drive in a straight line without a gyro? Does that even make sense that you can’t do that?
The answer is:
Poor throttle and steering control.

How to drive WITH Gyro Assist
If your car is tuned correctly, you can take off from a standstill as quickly as you would like. Full throttle for that burnout effect, modulating for maximum speed and traction, or anything in between. Not much thought goes into that. The car magically goes straight.

We “flick” the car into the corner, steer into it as the car starts to slide, get on the throttle to get that angle, and we guide the car with the steering to take that smooth line. Want to speed up, give it more throttle. Want to slow down, less throttle. (Subject to debate, but you get the point). Exit the corner and blast to the next. I’m sure we can all agree this is all pretty basic.

Note:
For those who started out with CS (Counter-Steer) or even 50/50 for that matter, how long did it take for you to get “Good?” Were you able to tandem the first day? How about the first week? You had to work at it. You had to learn to be smooth, right? A first timer tandeming the first time on the track was unheard of. 

Fast forward to today. We have first timers getting on the track and being able to tandem within a few hours. Able to hold their own in comps after a couple weeks of practice. Obviously, things have changed and let’s face it, they have become easier.

How to drive WITHOUT a Gyro
The first thing you will notice is there is nothing keeping you from spinning. One of the hardest things to do is drive straight. Yes, it is difficult to drive straight.

Just as in a real car, if you have 1000 horsepower, you will have a hard time driving straight down your street if you start off by going half or full throttle and start spinning your tires. So you need to be easy on the throttle. (Not that difficult, right? Same applies here) When you break rear traction, there is nothing keeping the back end of your car from coming around on you. This is why you will find yourself spinning when you try to go straight. To drive straight you need to be easy on the throttle, and / or you need to somehow keep the front and rear balanced between each other. You maintain balance by counter-steering AND modulating the throttle. The key is balance.

When you want to start a drift, you will need to get the weight of the chassis to shift, and then you need to break rear traction. At the same time, you need to steer into the drift and maintain a balance between throttle and steering. The more throttle you give, the more the rear end wants to come out. This means as you give more throttle you need to add more angle with your steering input. If you want to continue to navigate a given turn, you will need to adjust your trajectory by making adjustments with both the steering and throttle. It is a constant balancing act. It is truly steering with your throttle.

What is the real difference then
I found using a Gyro to assist in RWD R/C Drifting, the Gyro bridges the gap between Steering and Throttle. With this, you end up using each independently. It breaks down like this:

Gyro Assisted will keep the chassis in a balanced state, regardless of poor steering and throttle control.

Gyro Assisted RWD Drifting
Steering – Controls the direction of the chassis. No real relation to the throttle.
Throttle – Controls the speed and angle of the chassis. No real relation to the steering.
Gyro – Electronically prevents the chassis from spinning by maintaining the correct amount counter-steer to the angle induced by the throttle input. Essentially the gyro compensates for unbalanced steering and throttle input.

Without the Gyro aiding, you now have the added task of keeping the chassis in a balanced state at all times.

RWD Drifting
Steering – Controls the direction of the chassis. Also used in conjunction with the throttle to keep the chassis balanced and in control.
Throttle – Controls the speed and angle of the chassis. Also used in conjunction with the steering to keep the chassis balanced and in control.

I am now driving without out Gyro. The last time I attempted to do this, my approach was incorrect. I thought about RWD Drifting with a Gyro and tried to figure out how to “replace” the Gyro with my hand. All the while, keeping what was explained to me about what a Gyro does.  That was just the wrong approach.

This time around I approached it fresh. I told myself everything I have been told could be wrong, so I needed to figure it out for myself. Quite honestly, the explanations never made sense to me and I was quite vocal about it.

I started to think about real 1:1 drifting, and all of a sudden EVERYTHING was clear. Why did I stop counter-steering? Why was I so abrupt with the throttle?  Why were my flicks into the corners as hard as they are with no consideration for anything else? The answer was simple, because EVERYTHING I was doing was focused around the gyro saving me. 

So in conclusion, it is very possible to drive RWD R/C Drift without a Gyro.
The Gyro is a driving aid that compensates for lack of ability to keep the chassis balanced at all times. Recently it has become the center of tuning, so rather than to make better drivers, they make servos to work better with Gyros. They push for more Gyro gain, and further remove the driver from the task of keeping the chassis balanced. More throttle, harder flicks, less spinning, all because of a little electronic device that allows you to do this. (You can’t do it without)

Normal vs. ACVS Mode:
Recently I have experimented with ACVS Mode which is another step deeper into having the Gyro control the car. When you step away for a moment, you quickly realize both normal and ACVS modes are essentially the same when it comes to Drift. They both remove the need to balance your steering and throttle. I wouldn’t say one is more of a cheat over the other. They are pretty much equal but different. Just the next advancement in Gyro technology. Something to make it easier to drive.

The Chassis are capable
We have all had a good, solid 3-4 years of improving our tuning game. We can all tune the hell out of our RWD chassis. Now if we apply that knowledge without relying on the Gyro to keep us from spinning, we can truly be in control of our cars. There is nothing more rewarding in RWD R/C Drift than to do clean, smooth laps because of your own skills. I guess I can only speak for myself, but I have never felt a greater sense of accomplishment while doing R/C Drift than that first clean lap without any sort of aid. I thought it may be impossbile.

RWD R/C Drift (No Gyro) is really the purest form of R/C Drifting.
Don’t get it wrong, it takes a lot of practice and skill. (And a lot of frustration) My good friend Aydin said it best and gave me a huge boost in motivation. He said,
“Imagine when this (Gyroless) is as easy to us as what we are doing now (Gyro). It’s just a matter of time.” 

Quite a few people have expressed interest in going Gyroless. It can very possibly be the next phase in R/C Drift if enough people are up to the task.

Below is my last few laps before we tore down our track. These aren’t my best laps, only my last laps. I was trying a different tune and lost my ability to maintain smoothness on the large sweeper. (Big Ackerman made it easier to get around the track, but harder to keep it smooth, Slight positive Ackerman forces you to be more gentle on the throttle, but in return gives you a smoother line) I wished I had one more day so I could revert to my previous setup, but that’s how it goes sometimes. Immediately following this, we tore down the track at the Original Super-G, and have just recently been able to get our new track open. (7 weeks of not even looking at my car) I know it’s not the smoothest, or even close to being perfect, but I wanted to give you guys a raw clip of where I was at before we had to move. Not staged, edited or anything of the sort.

Judging – Bad Calls?

Here at Super-G we have been using the Super-G Replay System for close to 2 years now and it has really changed how we judge. The accuracy and the transparency it provides is really second to none.

In the past there were always calls the judges made that would leave a lot of people feeling raw. Depending on where you were watching from, if you were really paying attention, and even if what you thought you saw is really what happened, people would have different opinions of what really happened.

If you want to get the most of this post, don’t go back and try to figure things out. Just watch the footage ONE TIME and make the call as if you are a judge. Remember, you are watching in real time, and you only get one shot at it.

Remember, ONLY ONCE! That’s how the judges get to see it live.

Did you catch it? What is the call? Remember, this could be someone’s one and only chance to win. Making the wrong call could possibly rob someone of their only victory. A OMT when someone rightfully earned the win is the same as robbing them. Oh the pressure of being a judge.

Did you make a call? Ok, go back and watch it again. Did you make the right call?

The biggest difference in judging with or without the reply system is how the judges think about each instance. For example, if a judge sees contact, they will make a mental note that there was contact made and who was at fault. That needs to be processed as it happens. I had seen it happen so many times where the judges would stop paying attention after contact was made, the rest of the run wasn’t even worth watching. Their decision was already made, and there was nothing more to see.

With the replay system, the judges will make a mental note that something happened at that point and they will need to review it. The run continues and the judges will watch the run in it’s entirety.

When the run is complete, the judges will decide if there are any areas that need to be looked at from different angles to confirm what they through they saw was indeed what actually happened.

Ok, let’s take a look at it from a different angle:

How did you do? Did you make the correct call? Were you confident you saw exactly what happened?

Did you make the correct call? Whether you called it correctly or not, without the Super-G Replay System, you would never be able to say the call was correct 100%. Also, there would never be a way to put the competitors minds at ease if they didn’t agree with your call.

In this particular instance, we felt the Chase Car made contact at the point where the sweeper starts to transition to a tighter hairpin. This caused the Lead Car to be knocked off line and ultimately over-rotate. Since we wanted to be certain that is what happened, we went to the replay to see it from a different angle. Without this angle, the call would have gone in favor of the Lead Car.

Due to the fact we have the replay system at our disposal, the call actually went the other way, in favor of the Chase Car who was just doing as they were supposed to.

This is just one instance where the Super-G Replay System was the only thing standing between the correct call and a bad call. Seeing how often things appear differently than what actually happened, it’s very obvious why there were so many upset competitors and why they would feel so strongly about how bad the judges were. I can’t really say I blame them.

April 13, 2019 Saturday Night Showdowns (Round 9)

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This past weekend was our first competition with the underpass of the Super-G Bridge that is presently under construction. Although we have been running this layout for the past month, the visual of the new prop seemed to make things a little different for everyone participating. This combined with our new Spec Tire, DS Racing – RWD FFFF Zero Mark II seemed to change it all up enough to give it a new spin.

Just for fun we have made the Saturday Night Showdowns a point series. It’s all for fun and every participant receives points which will be used at the end of the year.

Points will be awarded as follows:
15 pts – First Place
12 pts – Second Place
10 pts – Third Place
8 pts – Forth Place
7 pts – Fifth Place (Remainder of Top 8)
6 pts – Participation Points

In recent months we (as well as others in the pits) have seen a rise in bothered competitors after they lose a battle. We have also noticed a decrease in the competitors interest/attention during the Driver’s Meetings. Coincidence? I don’t believe so. So this week I put into play rotating judges. Every week I will have new judges helping me out. Everyone thinks it’s easy, but I know everyone will be in for a surprise. In addition, it will help educate them on what the judges are looking for and in turn will make them better drivers. This week was Alan Benites as the guest judge and he did great!

The Finals – Ethan David (L) and Hao Huang (R)

New Spec Tire 2 weeks later:
The new Spec Tires, DS Racing – RWD FFFF Zero Mark II have proven to be a great move for Super-G! Details to come.

This weeks top four had come down to Ethan David vs. Hao Huang for 1st and 2nd Place, and Tim Mulhmeyer vs. Joe Tam for 3rd and 4th spot! First up was Tim vs. Joe. Joe was piloting the new Rhino-Max chassis since he’s been curious as to how it’s going to perform in a comp setting. The battles were tight as expected and really what we are accustom to seeing in the Top 4! Unfortunately on the last clip on Joe’s lead run, he got a little too excited and over-rotated. It wasn’t bad, but it was enough to give Tim the win and lock in 3rd spot!

The Winners, 1st – Hao Huang, 2nd – Ethan David, and 3rd – Tim Mulhmeyer

When we got to the Main Event, we had 2 competitors who are no strangers to that top podium spot, Ethan and Hao. We knew it was going to be a great battle and they didn’t disappoint! Both Ethan and Hao laid down some serious leads! Nothing to complain about, that’s for sure! It really all came down to the chases. Ethan gave a great chase! One that would normally be enough to take the win, but this was Hao’s night, and he pulled an insane chase out! Every transition was within a hair of Ethan’s bumper, and he matched angle and went deeper on all the clips! Hao took the Top Podium Spot and Ethan locked down 2nd place!!! Great driving to the both of them, and congratulations to Hao for taking home the win!

Joe being sneaky sneaky with 4th and the Rhino-Max

Points Earned – 4/13/19:
1st. 15 pts – Hao Huang
2nd. 12 pts – Ethan David
3rd. 10 pts – Tim Mulhmeyer
4th. 8 pts – Joe Tam
5th. 7 pts – Aydin Angulo
5th. 7 pts – Sam Angulo
5th. 7 pts – Sam Taylor
5th. 7 pts – Steve Fujita
9th. 6 pts – Alan Benites
9th. 6 pts – Karlo Malabanan
9th. 6 pts – Josh Espinoza

Point Standings – 4/13/19:
1st. – 80 pts – Hao Haung (15)
1st. – 80 pts – Alan Benites (6)
3rd. – 78 pts – Tim Mulhmeyer (10)
4th. – 62 pts – Aydin Angulo (7)
5th. – 58 pts – Mark Santa Cruz
6th. – 57 pts – Manny Campalans
7th. – 54 pts – Joe Tam (8)
8th. – 52 pts – Josh Espinoza (6)
9th. – 48 pts – Sam Angulo (7)
10th. – 40 pts – Ethan David (12)
11th. – 39 pts – Colin Chambers
12th. – 37 pts – Nick Lepisto
13th. – 36 pts – Karlo Malabanan (6)
14th. – 35 pts – Kevin Motter 
15th. – 32 pts – Steve Fujita (7)
16th. – 25 pts – Sam Taylor (7)
17th. – 21 pts – Shilun Gu 
17th. – 21 pts – Alfredo Chan III
19th. – 19 pts – Mark Solnyshkin
20th. – 17 pts – Mikko Yang
21th. – 12 pts – Andy Orozco
21th. – 12 pts – Brian Kroells
21th. – 12 pts – Jose Aleman
21th. – 12 pts – Jelani Robinson 
21th. – 12 pts – 
Travon Yancy 
26th. – 7 pts – Tyler Hill
26th. – 7 pts – Dennis Caroza
26th. – 7 pts – Jose Sanchez
29th. – 6 pts – Shaine Collins
29th. – 6 pts – Jayson Ragasa
29th. – 6 pts – Juan Duran
29th. – 6 pts – Jian Allen
29th. – 6 pts – AJ Caroza
29th. – 6 pts – Chris Lagasca
29th. – 6 pts – Dan Aguada
29th. – 6 pts – Rynne Degala
29th. – 6 pts – Erick Gonzalez
29th. – 6 pts – 
Danny Aguilar
29th. – 6 pts – 
Kris Steele
29th. – 6 pts – 
Alex Dagondon
41st. – 0 pts



What the Judge! Part II

We all know how it is when we are in a comp. Sometimes the calls seem to go our way, and other times it seems like the judges were just blind or the call felt biased. Even before judging, I always felt I needed to trust the judges call, otherwise it would just ruin the fun for me. More than that, I knew there was no way I could see everything that is happening, AND concentrate on my driving. I’m just not that good and I’m not sure if anyone really is.

Then suddenly there’s a fool-proof method to make sure the calls are correct! Have your buddy bust out his phone and get the runs on video! This way you can review it later and see if the judges were just picking on you, or if you really did lose. I mean, video doesn’t lie.

Since we have been doing our Weekly Fun Comps, I will get people asking me the day after why they lost, or someone will feel they were singled out and the judges were out to get them. Nothing could be further from the truth. We all know even one biased call can ruin everything and kill the fun forever. However, I can see why it’s easy to feel that way. Especially when some people aren’t quite clear on the rules and how the judging works. Add to that video proof to back their feelings, and it’s basically impossible for them to believe otherwise. I mean, you can hardly blame them at that point.

It’s really hard to explain to someone why, when they have video that shows something that could have or should have had a different outcome. I will state for the record, every time I have gone back to review a questionable call based on this type of scenario, it always comes back that the judges were right. I’m not saying we can’t and wont make mistakes, I’m simply saying that every time this has happened, it’s is proven we made the correct call.

With that being said, please check out this video for a perfect example of why having video for the purpose of double checking the judging may upset you for no reason. In fact, you may be ruining the experience for yourself, depending on how seriously you take it. Remember, in the end, it’s all about fun. We are all doing this to have a good time and get away from the every day grind.
Disclaimer: The video is a little dry and boring, but it’s meant to be informative over entertaining.

2/2/19 Super Showdown Round 2

This past weekend was Round 2 of the  Super-G SuperShowdown point series. The SuperShowdowns are the Super-G Monthly Competitions which are open to anyone at any time during the season. The points will only count at the end of the season. Everyone who competes will accumulate points.

The point series is run in the background of the monthly comps and at the end of the season, at the Super-G Anniversary Session the West Coast King of Drift will be crowned.

Don’t fear if you missed the first one. We (the official judges) have been ironing out the details, and we have decided since everyone has an off day, people get sick, and basically life happens, each competitor will have their 2 worst event scores dropped. What this means is, you can miss up to 2 events and still not be penalized. Beyond 2, and you are on your own.

Points are as follows:
15 pts – First Place
12 pts – Second Place
10 pts – Third Place
9 pts – Forth Place
8 pts – Fifth Place and lower (Participation Points)
2 pts Bonus – Top Qualifier

Of course it rained again for our comp. It has rained 4 comps in a row so far. We plan to be ready for the next one, but that being said, it will most likely never rain again for us. A few people let us know it was just too dangerous to make the trek out for the event, so the low turnout was expected. We still had 18 competitors which isn’t bad by any means.

The spec tire for the event was Yokomo DRC all around. A pair of rear tires were supplied with every entry.

Qualifying:
The first order of business was qualifying. I wasn’t present for the first half due to some personal business I had to take care of, but the judges are more than capable of functioning without me. Since we all spit out the same numbers for every qualifying run, there was no need for concern. Congratulations to Kevin Motter for laying down the 2 best qualifying runs of the night, earning him Top Qualifier of the event!


Our Official Sponsor of the Super Showdown Round 2 was Scale Logic Garage. They have been producing some really nice quality exhausts for our builds. If you are like myself, and you appreciate nice quality, hand crafted products, Scale Logic Garage will not disappoint. Everyone seemed to be genuinely impressed with their quality. AJ Caroza from Scale Logic Garage donated one for our Top Qualifier (TQ) of the competition, and also 3 more for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place winners! Thanks Scale Logic Garage for the generous donation! We know the time and effort it takes to produce these one-off products.

Top Qualifier – Kevin Motter
2 – Tim Mulhmeyer
3 – Mikko Yang
4 – Manny Campalans
5 – Hao Huang
6 – Ethan David
7 – Alan Benites
8 – Josh Espinoza
9 – Jose Sanchez
10 – Nick Lepisto
11 – Aydin Angulo
12 – Mark Santa Cruz
13 –
Colin Chambers
14 – Sam Angulo
15 – Jeff Yang
16 – Shaine Collins
17 – Mark Solnyshkin
18 – Travon Yancy

Tsuiso Battles:
It looks like as always, the official competitions bring out the best in everyone. The driving was some of the best we have seen, and even some of the people who have been a little shaky in recent months really put down some great runs! Although he didn’t win his battle, Mark Solnyshkin came out of nowhere and displayed some amazing driving! This is what we are always talking about, you just really don’t know what is going to happen.

The battles were awesome with a lot of great driving! It came down to the Top 4 with Manny Campalans vs Aydin Angulo for 3rd and 4th spot, and Kevin Motter vs Tim Mulhmeyer for 1st and 2nd spot.

First up was Manny and Aydin. Manny pulled off a great lead while Aydin gave him a great chase! Both did what they needed to do in the first run. Then in the second run with Aydin leading and Manny chasing, both were doing a great job once again, but on the last clip, Aydin made a slight miscalculation and over-rotated causing him to all but stop. Manny was able to avoid contact and basically locking down 3rd Place!

Then it was the finale, Kevin and Tim for that Top Podium Spot! Both of these guys are no stranger to the podium and I have to say are notorious for being consistent and smooth as eggs. First out of the gate was Kevin leading, Tim chasing. Kevin pulled off another one of his amazing lead runs, being smooth with a lot of angle, all while keeping on the qualifying line with very minimal corrections (if any at all). Tim gave a great chase with some awesome proximity! Obviously some top notch driving going down! No mistakes! Next up, Tim on the lead and Kevin on the chase. Tim throws down an amazing lead. Deep deep deep in the clips just as Kevin did on his lead. Great angle, great line, just all around exactly what he needed to do! It seemed as if Kevin knew what he was up against, and if he was going to beat Tim, he was going to have to pull something amazing out of his bag of tricks. He did just that, and brought it with some super smooth, but also super tight proximity! Although Tim and Kevin’s leads were close, Kevin’s chase was something to witness. It was more than enough to secure the win, and 1st Place! Tim took a very respectable 2nd.


Your Winners for the Super Showdown Round 2!
1st – Kevin Motter, 2nd – Tim Mulhmeyer, and 3rd – Manny Campalans

Special thanks to our judges of the night, Colin Chambers and Shaine Collins for judging along side of me. Also a huge thanks to our sponsor for the evening, AJ Caroza / Scale Logic Garage for some amazing prizes!

SUPER SHOWDOWN ROUND 3 – March 9, 2019!
(PLEASE NOTE THIS IS THE SECOND SATURDAY OF THE MONTH)
SEE YOU THEN!!!

The official results can be seen here:

Official Point Standings:
29 pts –
Kevin Motter (1st Place 15 pts + TQ 2 pts)
23 pts –
Mikko Yang (5th Place 8 pts)
20 pts –
Tim Mulhmeyer (2nd Place 12 pts)
20 pts –
Colin Chambers (9th Place 8 pts)
18 pts –
Manny Campalans (3rd Place 10 pts)
17 pts –
Alan Benites (5th Place 8 pts)
16 pts – Hao Huang (5th Place 8 pts)
16 pts – Jose Sanchez ( 5th Place 8 pts)
16 pts – Josh Espinoza (9th Place 8 pts)
16 pts – Nick Lepisto (9th Place 8 pts)
16 pts – Mark Santa Cruz (9th Place 8 pts)
16 pts – Sam Angulo (9th Place 8 pts)
16 pts – Jeff Yang (9th Place 8 pts)
16 pts – Mark Solnyshkin (9th Place 8 pts)
16 pts – Shaine Collins (17th Place 8 pts)
16 pts – Travon Yancy (17th Place 8 pts)
9 pts – Aydin Angulo (4th Place 9 pts)
8 pts –
Ethan David (9th Place 8 pts)
8 pts –
Albert Martinez

1/26/19 Saturday Night Showdowns (Fun Comp Series)


Saturday, January 26, 2019:
Saturday Night Showdowns week 3
It was another great weekend here at Super-G R/C Drift Arena! The competition at the Saturday Night Showdowns is getting good! The mood has been light and it looks like everyone is getting comfortable with competing. That’s the objective of the SNS.

Tim Mulhmeyer was shooting for his second win in a row, but as always, the competition is always fierce!

Points will be awarded as follows:
15 pts – First Place
12 pts – Second Place
10 pts – Third Place
8 pts – Forth Place
7 pts – Fifth Place (Remainder of Top 8)
6 pts – Participation Points

Judging for the evening was Colin Chambers and myself. Thank you Colin for taking the time to help judge!

We had 16 competitors this week, Shilun Gu (Allen) joined us from NorCal which is always fun! The Top 4 came down to Hao Huang vs Alan Benites for 3rd and 4th, and Mark Santa Cruz vs. Aydin Angulo for 1st and 2nd! Both Hao and Alan have some mad speed and they both used it for their final battles! Although both put up a great fight, Hao straightened in a couple area giving Alan the edge, and also 3rd Place on the Podium! Then it was Mark vs. Aydin for the Top Spot! Great runs by both competitors, but Mark had made contact with one of the barriers, securing his 2nd place spot. Aydin emerged the winner taking 1st Place for the night! Congratulations Aydin!


Aydin Angulo – 1st / Mark Santa Cruz – 2nd / Alan Benites- 3rd

Congratulations to our winners of the Saturday Night Showdowns week 3! Can’t wait to get it on next Saturday!!! See you then!


Hao Huang getting in on his 4th place pic!

Points Earned – 1/26/19:
1st. 15 pts – Aydin Angulo
2nd. 12 pts – Mark Santa Cruz
3rd. 10 pts – Alan Benites
4th. 8 pts – Hao Huang
5th. 7 pts – Colin Chambers
5th. 7 pts – Mark Solnyshkin
5th. 7 pts – Tim Mulhmeyer
5th. 7 pts – Joe Tam
9th. 6 pts – Nick Lepisto
9th. 6 pts – Josh Espinoza
9th. 6 pts – Sam Angulo
9th. 6 pts – Jelani Robinson
9th. 6 pts – Shilun Gu
9th. 6 pts – Steve Fujita
9th. 6 pts – Karlo Malabanca
9th. 6 pts – Travon Yancy

Point Standings – 1/26/19:
1st. 34 pts – Tim Mulhmeyer
(7)
2nd. 32 pts –
Alan Benites (10)
3rd. 28 pts –
Aydin Angulo (15)
4th. 27 pts –
Mark Santa Cruz (12)
5th. 22 pts –
Josh Espinoza (6)
6th. 18 pts –
Nick Lepisto (6)
6th. 18 pts –
Sam Angulo (6)
6th. 18 pts –
Hao Haung (8)
9th. 13 pts –
Steve Fujita (6)
9th. – 13 pts –
Mark Solnyshkin (7)
9th. – 13 pts –
Colin Chambers (7)
12th. – 12 pts –
Jelani Robinson (6)
12th. – 12 pts –
Travon Yancy (6)
12th . – 12 pts –
Karlo Malabanca (6)
13th. – 8 pts –
Kevin Motter
14th. – 7 pts –
Jose Sanchez
15th. – 6 pts –
Danny Aguilar
15th. – 6 pts –
Kris Steele
15th. – 6 pts –
Manny Campalans
15th. – 6 pts –
Alex Dagondon
15th. – 6 pts –
Ethan David
15th. – 6 pts –
Shilun Gu (6)