Category Archives: Guides

One Month With New Spec Tires

As many of you know, Super-G R/C Drift Arena made the decision to move to a new Spec Tire around a month ago. We know this is a big decision and it’s something to be taken seriously.

This decision was met with some resistance from a few people at our track, but for the most part people understood the reason for the change. Basically, we felt our previous Spec Tire was getting too fast. Yes, it’s a broad statement, but best describes the issue. To expand on that thought, the type of traction they provide was now making our competitions and sessions more of a point to point drag race. The tires themselves did not gain more traction, the tune and driving style just exploited a traction characteristic of that particular tire, so it was time to change. This has happened almost every year since we have opened, so we had been looking for an alternative even before it became any type of issue. Even now, we have a few tires as contenders for our next spec tire.

The difference between our old spec and new is subtle, but definitely what we were/are after. Our findings (Only what we are finding at Super-G) are as follows:
Less Forward Bite:
Forward bite was the main characteristic that was causing concern on our previous spec. This issue is 2-fold and the main contributor to the style of driving we were seeing. With a higher level of forward bite, it promotes darting out of the corners and trying to get to the next as fast as possible. At the same time, a low speed, high angle drift becomes “less fun” since you need to grab a ton of throttle, or grip up and straighten or dive shallow. Indirectly, more forward bite promotes shallow angle drifts when compared to a tire with less. (Of course everyone CAN grab a ton of throttle to get that high angle and low speed drift such as in a competition when chasing a slower car, but this doesn’t happen naturally and nobody will drive this way all the time. When the natural speed of a tire becomes too fast, for us it is time to change.)

Some have argued they can “hang” with the new spec, even though it has less forward bite. When put to the test, they needed to run shallow angle with minimal wheel spin to keep up. If you enjoy driving with shallow angle and minimal wheel spin to make a point, sure, why not. The reality is, if you continue to drive the same as you have before the change, not trying to prove a point, everything slows down a bit, lines become smoother, angle becomes more consistent.

Less Sideways Bite:
The new spec has less sideways bite which has promoted more angle, more consistent proximity, and smoother transitions.

It also has exposed improper tuning which was being masked by an overall grippier tire. Chassis which were tuned to barely get by are now experiencing some issues of spinning or not being able to initiate a drift correctly. In my opinion this is a good thing since it allows the opportunity for the newer guys to grow. Upping your tuning game is never a bad thing. As expected, we have witnessed the veteran guys helping the beginners get dialed.

Our Experience:
Ever since we opened doors here at Super-G, the tire chase has been real. I will be the first to admit I thought it was ridiculous that everyone tunes to be faster, so we change tires to slow down. Then the process starts all over again. My argument which I strongly believed in was, it was not a tire issue, but rather an issue of the people always trying to be faster. We tried to get people to just not drive as fast, or slow down and change their style of driving or tune, but it NEVER worked. You end up with that ONE guy who drives fast, and the next thing you know, EVERYONE is going fast again. It’s the nature of the beast. I finally needed to let my original beliefs go, and just accept the fact that it will always be like that. Tuning styles change, technology changes, chassis designs change, etc. It’s all in pursuit of better and more efficient performance and gaining as much traction from what little we have.

We have found the DS Racing FFFF Zero Mark II to be what works at the moment here at Super-G. It is giving us a very consistent slide with enough forward bite to get us going, but not so much where it’s promoting a drag race out of every corner. Someone brought up the point that when they are new (not worn in) they have some imperfections. We are aware of this, but once they are worn in, they perform as any other tire we have used. This is a case of compound/performance over appearance. They also have a longer break-in period. Our previous spec tire took about 15 minutes to break-in, our new spec is closer to 45 minutes. This is to be expected with a harder compound tire.

Results After 1 Month:
The speeds and driving style has shifted from trying to be as fast as possible to more emphasis on clean driving and style. We are still seeing some good top speed on the straight, but it takes more skill to navigate the sweeper at the end. We are seeing more angle, better proximity, and smoother driving overall. The feedback has been great and our customers have really taken a liking to the new spec. We are very pleased with the tire choice and results.

In conclusion, we hope everyone understands we are not saying Tire A is better than Tire B. For us it’s a matter of which compound works best for us. For this round we tested over 15 (Maybe more) different tire compounds before deciding. For anyone doubting the evolution of the speed of chassis and tuning, throw on a set of MST Gold Dots and give it a try. This was our spec tire before DRCs. The current round of chassis raised the average speed and forced the switch to a slower tire. Every tire has it’s strengths and weaknesses, but if we never took the step forward and changed tires, we would still be running on T-Drifts.

YD2 Slide Rack Setup Tips (Team Yokomo)

Team Yokomo: YD2SX2 / Roundly Steering Rack Setup

In this article we will show you how to fine tune the new curved slide rack for our award winning YD-2 drift chassis series. Team YOKOMO developed a slide rack that gives optimal steering characteristics using the latest drift settings. As well as the arc movement of the rack, giving better Ackerman control and feel, it is mounted at an angle that matches the movement of the suspension, helping to almost eliminate bump steer. We have only just released it and already it has earned high praise from many drivers over a short period of time.
It will be installed as standard on the new drift chassis kit the “YD-2SX II” which will be on sale soon.

 Y2-202 SRE Curve slide rack set for YD-2E series ¥ 17,600 (excluding tax)
Y2-202 SRS YD-2S Series Curved Slide Rack Set ¥ 14,200 (excluding tax)

The movement of the steering rack is adjusted by rotating the bearings on the supporting rail and the bearing posts are an eccentric cam design. Here we will inform you of some helpful tips to further improve the new steering racks accuracy. We recommend assembling the slide rack itself but leave the bearings and posts loosely to begin with. Please ensure the adjustable bearing posts are temporarily tightened in this position.

There is a mark on the head of each bearing post that are made into an eccentric cam, the side with this mark is thickest and the clearance becomes tight if you turn the mark toward the rail side. Since the clearance is fully open in the image above, first rotate the posts B and C and tighten the screws so that the mark is closest to the rail. If B and C are not symmetrical, a left and right difference will occur in the movement of the rail, so be sure they are symmetrical.

パーツの個体差もあるので調整範囲が変わると思いますが、撮影に使用したスライドラックは上画像のポストの位置が最適となりました。実際の走行ではごみやほこりの侵入、パーツの摩耗、気温の変化による金属類の変形等によってもクリアランスは変化することになりますので、走行前には一旦サーボロッドを外すなどして、ステアリングが軽く作動することを確認して下さい。


 

Finally post A needs to be adjusted to remove any additional play. From here, gradually rotate the A post to take up the play, but please operate the rail by hand before and after adjustment to check that the movement is still smooth on the bearings, if it’s set too tight it will damage the bearings and the rack. Although our manufacturing tolerances are the closest they can be the adjustment range may differ and it’s possible to have slight differences in the parts. Most of the time the position of the posts on the top image is the optimal position for the slide rack. After a while the clearance may change due to dust ingress and wear. Metals also expand slightly with changes in temperature, so before driving your chassis we recommend removing the servo link and confirm that it still works perfectly with no binding or excessive play. The bearings we use are of the highest quality and will work for many cycles if set correctly with no binding. Adjustment of the bearing posts can take a lot of play from the front and back of the rail but there is also a slight clearance in the vertical direction. This is there to ensure that your new steering rack operates smoothly right away and does not cause premature wear of the aluminium or carbon parts.


 

The image above is from the side of the slide rack, since the thickness of the aluminum rail is larger than the thickness of the bearing, there is a slight clearance above the bearing. This is there to absorb any individual differences of parts etc. but if when you assemble the steering and find there is a lot of play you can also remove any up and down play if you require. Simply add a shim between the bearings on the posts to reduce the clearance until any play has gone. Once you have done the following please check the movement is still smooth and be aware that decreasing the clearance may have a negative effect on the wear rate of parts or cause binding if it is done incorrectly.

The shim we recommend is 4.0mm ID stainless steel precision cut (ZC-S40S 450), 0.05mm, 0.1mm, 0.2mm thick shims supplied as a set. Team yokomo measured many different parts and found the thickness of the rail was about 6.0mm and the thickness of the two bearings was around 5.9 mm, so theoretically there is no clearance when using a 0.1 mm shim. We suggest to try using a 0.1 mm shim first and check if this is good with less free play.

The response of the steering will change by adjusting the slide rack to have minimal play. In some extreme cases the gyro can over compensate (malfunction) if there is excessive play in the steering affecting the stability and feel of the chassis. We believe careful assembly will lead to better chassis performance.

Please also remember the tolerances inside the bearings can change, especially with precision parts adjusted to give optimum performance this makes it difficult to keep smooth without any play at all. For future maintenance and smooth operation please check the steering regularly for any binding.

Grab a set of the correct shims here:

 

4.0mm Spacer Stainless Steel Shims (.05mm / .1mm .2mm) (30-Pack) [Yokomo] ZC-S40S

 

Which Chassis and Why

Being a shop that sells R/C Drift exclusively, we get a lot people asking which chassis would be the best for them. Since most of this happens in store, we have the opportunity to break it down for them while taking a few factors into account. It’s a little more difficult when we see this same question posted online due to many factors. There is a lot of great advice out there, and there is a lot of bad advice as well. It’s up to you to decide which is credible and which is not. In fact, you should be asking yourself if I am even credible.

We encounter a few different types of buyers and each come with their own unique needs. What we first tell them is, they really need to be honest with themselves. The decision they make on their first setup can greatly affect the amount they spend in the long run. I believe right from the start, the first thing that should be looked at is what type of person are you? Are you the type that is content with just good enough, or are you the type to want all the good stuff? I fall into the later and ultimately could have saved quite a bit if I made the right choice at the start. If you are the type that will have everything upgraded in the next month or two, you should consider the kits that include some hop-ups already. You will save roughly 30% off your upgrade journey.

Although choosing the right chassis seems like a life decision, keep in mind most people seem to change chassis about once a year. Some keep them longer, some have multiple chassis throughout the year, but on average it seems to cycle around the 1 year mark.

If you are new to R/C Drift, (notice I worded it R/C Drift, NOT just R/C) Most likely even your past R/C knowledge will not be enough to get you where you want to be right away. R/C Drift is a different animal than any other discipline of R/C, so it’s not easy to just start out and be the superstar of the track. The main point I always stress is:

Find out what people are running where you plan to spend most of your time drifting, and go that route. There will be a ton of help and you will spend more time drifting, and less time being frustrated. You Will Need Help.

There is plenty of time to be unique later with the ultra rare chassis, but when you are first starting out, it will benefit you to be able to share tips and setups.

When choosing your first R/C Drift chassis, you will hear a ton of advice. Some good and some really bad. Some of the common, bad ones we often come across are:

1. Any chassis can be good. Yes and No.
YES – If you REALLY know what you are doing, AND you are ok throwing a bunch of money at it.
NO – If both of those statements don’t apply to you. If you’re just starting out, this is a huge NO!

We have seen many people make their initial investment in a difficult chassis, struggle alone since there is nobody familiar with their chassis or how to set it up, and finally just disappear and blow out their full setup on Craigslist.

2. The clones are just as good, just cost less.
NO – We have yet to see a good performing clone, Period.

Just don’t. Maybe later down the line when you are well versed in turning and you know exactly what you are after, then try to tackle a project like this, but for now, focus on a good, solid foundation.

Ready To Run (RTR)
Aimed toward the person who needs an entire setup. They don’t own a remote, electronics, etc. They are also trying to start out on a budget of sub $500.

The only RTR we can recommend at this time is the MST RMX 2.0 RTR.

Things to consider:
This is intended to get you going in R/C Drift. The chassis itself is the same as the regular RMX 2.0, with only a couple small differences that can be changed to be the same for a $50-$100.

It comes pre-built and tested from the factory. This means you don’t need to worry about all the small details of setting it up correctly. you just pull it out of the box and you are good to go. The tires even have a little wear on them from the test run at MST.

It comes pre-built, so you didn’t build it yourself. This means when something goes wrong (and it will), you will need to learn how to fix it. If you built it yourself, you would already be familiar with how the car works and goes together.

The RTR electronics are meant to just get you going. There are a lot of electronics out there that are better quality and more pricy. There is a reason why people are willing the drop the extra cash on them. The electronics included will get you up and going, but you will be upgrading soon. This is a key point.

Reality:
You are not really saving money, you are just able to get started for a lower initial investment. It is the cheapest way to get into the hobby.

Base Kits:
Yokomo YD-2E and YD-2S
MST RMX 2.0s
These chassis kits come in “kit” form. This means you build it yourself. We always recommend this route since knowing how it all goes together is invaluable. You will need to fix it on occasion, so either you become an expert from the start, or you struggle every time something goes wrong. All 3 are mainly plastic and are considered Entry Level. All 3 drive excellent out of the box and all 3 can be fully upgraded. Also note, these are all very capable chassis out of the box. That’s not to say the upgrades aren’t needed or don’t make a difference, because they do. It simply means in the right hands, there is no reason you wouldn’t see these very chassis on the podium at your local comp.

Yokomo YD-2E and YD-2S:
Yokomo is the larger of the 2 companies and as of recent, have really been pushing the development of their YD-2 line. They have been steadily releasing new upgrades. Some feel it’s too often, some like the innovation. The YD-2 line also has a lot of 3rd party support, but keep in mind, not all the 3rd party products are good or even tested. We have seen a lot of “upgrades” actually hurt performance. So buyer beware. If you like constantly changing and upgrading parts, Yokomo is really the clear choice of the two companies I am discussing.

YD-2E:
Based on the original YD-2 design, it has a Low Center of Gravity (LCG) setup, with a standard gearbox and a low mounted motor. It was intended for standard to high-traction conditions.


YD-2S:
It has introduced a tub style chassis and lay-down gearbox. The lay-down gearbox mounts the motor high, High Center of Gravity (HCG) giving it more “Weight Shift” and theoretically more traction for standard to low-traction conditions.

MST (Max Speed Technology) RMX 2.0s:
MST has been a player for a long time and has always put out high quality products. There is not a lot of 3rd party support, but MST always brings upgrades that work really well. They designed the chassis, they design the upgrades, it’s a winning combination. Their upgrades are some of the nicest I’ve seen, but typically come with a price tag to match. If you like upgrading once and sticking with it, MST is the way to go. They typically will release a couple versions of . upgrades, and then they move on. You can count on their upgrades making a difference and also being top quality.

RMX 2.0s:
In my opinion the RMX 2.0s was MST’s answer to Yokomo’s YD-2. The YD-2 S appears to be Yokomo’s answer to the RMX 2.0s. The RMX 2.0s comes with a bevel gear gearbox giving it a more compact design. It also allows you to chose between mounting the motor high or low, giving you a High Center of Gravity (HCG) and a Low Center of Gravity (LCG) setup in one chassis. It’s nice to be able to experiment and find what fits your driving style without having to commit to an entirely different chassis.

Conclusion:
This is based on the many customers who come through our doors here at Super-G. We have worked with many people who have gone about this in so many different ways. We would just like to save you guys the frustration if possible.

For someone just getting into the hobby, the Yokomo YD-2 line and the MST RMX 2.0s are the leading choices. These are the most popular Rear Wheel Drive chassis with the most support and knowledge at the moment. I own both and can recommend them both very highly.

If you stick to these 3 or the upgraded versions, you will be on your way with a solid chassis. What you do from there is up to you, but you can feel confident it’s not your chassis holding you back.
GOOD LUCK!
KEEP DRIFT FUN!

CHECK THEM ALL OUT HERE:
MST RMX 2.0 RTR
MST RMX 2.0 RTR (Bodyless)
MST RMX 2.0s (LCG/HCG)
Yokomo YD-2S (HCG)
Yokomo YD-2E (LCG)
The Full Line Up

YD2 Buyer’s Guide! There are over 14 YD2’s WHICH ONE AND WHY?

A lot of people have asked about which YD2 they should purchase and why? With Yokomo releasing over 14 variations, it can get quite confusing! Especially if you are not certain of what is the same and compatible.

Here’s a brief run down of the models available on the market, and their retail price:

Original YD2 Series (Available at Launch of YD2)
*All the YD2 classics are replaced with the E Line now
DP-YD2
– DRIFT PACKAGE YD-2 – 218.00
DP-YD2G – DRIFT PACKAGE YD-2 with GYRO YG-302 – 255.00
DP-YD2PLS – DRIFT PACKAGE YD-2 PLUS – 429.00
DP-YD-2EX – YD-2 EX Chassis KIT- 600.00
Revised YD2 Series (Features Shorter Front A-Arms and Reduced Rear Toe)
DP-YD2E
– DRIFT PACKAGE YD-2E – 218.00
DP-YD2EG – YD-2E Chassis KIT (with YG-302 gyro) – 255.00
DP-YD2ES – YD-2E Special KIT- 305.00
DP-YD2EPLS
– YD-2E Plus Chassis KIT – 426.00
DP-YD2EX2 – YD-2 EXII Chassis KIT – 600.00
DP-YD2EXF – YD-2 EX Final Version Chassis KIT – 600.00
Newest YD2 S-Series (4 Gear Laydown Transmission & High Motor Mount)
DP-YD2S –  YD-2S Chassis KIT – 218.00
DP-YD2SG – YD-2S Chassis kit with YG-302 Gyro – 255.00
DP-YD2SS – YD-2S SPECIAL KIT – 305.00
DP-YD2S-PL – YD-2S Plus Car KIT (CARBON GRAPHITE) – 405.00
DP-YD2SX
– YD-2SX CHASSIS KIT – 600.00

Different Series:

In a nutshell, the original YD2 series featured the regular length front A-Arms and standard low mounting motor plate. As for the new YD2-E Series, it features the newer revised front end which are low scrub and slight changes like reduced rear toe. The E-Series pretty much replaced the original YD2 series, but they’re very similar. The E Series features LCG (lower center gravity).
E-Series:

S-Series:

The S-Series features the greatest change. They all come with the laydown 4 gear transmission, updated lower arms and reduced toe. This new transmission puts the motor on top. This new configuration really makes the S-Series a high traction setup. This VRM setup lets you position your motor 3 ways right out of the box. An upgraded motor mount is available for more positions. This S-Line stands for SPECIALIZED FOR SLIPPERY SURFACE. The lineup features a hybrid type chassis deck. It has plastic side guards and an optional carbon side plate covers. The entire S-Line can ONLY use shorty sized battery due to this design. The revised 4 gear lay down transmission also delivers extra traction.

A lot of people at Super-G are rocking a YD2-S Line car. Almost 99% of all YD2’s at our track are running the S Series. The higher traction chassis is definite a great choice!

Different Models and Editions:


As usual, Yokomo features a few variations of each YD2 line.  The basic model come as a kit. This is the “ALL PLASTIC/BASE” model. You can get into the car for cheap, but there are no upgrades besides turnbuckles. They offer a GYRO version(since most new chassis customers will require one), They always give you a slight price break when you get the Gyro Version vs buying it a la carte.

Example:
YD2E (YD2E Base Model) $218
YG-302 Gyro $49
TOTAL MSRP $267
Compared to what comes standard:
YD2EG (Base E Kit & Gyro) = MSRP $255 ($12 Savings)

The savings does not just stop there, Yokomo also offers a “PLUS” Version of all their cars. Although it doesn’t come with a Gyro, it comes with a few cool upgrades. The PLUS features upgraded SLF Big Bore shocks(Metal), Aluminum Front Shock Tower, Carbon Rear Shock Tower, and Carbon Fiber Lower Deck.

Example:
YD2S (YD-2S Base) $218.00
Y2-SBBS (SLF Big Bore Shock Set) $79
Y2-017AFE (Front Aluminum Shock Tower for EX/S Series) $45
Y2-018SG (Carbon Graphite Rear Shock Tower for S Series) $25
Y2-002SG (Carbon Main Deck) $120
TOTAL MSRP $487
Compared to what comes standard:
YD2S PLUS Chassis Kit = MSRP $405.00 ($82 Savings)

Now that you see the math, you’ll see why picking a higher tier car is worth while if you can swing it. We’ve recommended people saving a little longer just to move up to the next tier. The YD2SX is definitely the top choice pick. You save a HUGE amount of money in the long run. Everybody ends up upgrading almost everything over time, the YD2-SX comes almost 90% hopped up. There are almost limited edition and special editions which feature various hopups at a savings. These have limited production and are not readily available once they’re sold out.

YD2SX BREAKDOWN:

Here’s the biggest comparison:
YD2S (YD-2S Base) $218.00
Y2-SBBS (SLF Big Bore Shock Set) $79
Y2-017AFE (Front Aluminum Shock Tower for EX/S Series) $45
Y2-018SG (Carbon Graphite Rear Shock Tower for S Series) $25
Y2-002SG (Carbon Main Deck) $120
*******YD2S PLUS*******

Y2-002SB (Carbon Side Plate Covers) $33.50
Y2-302SA
(Aluminum Front Bulk Head Set) $63

Y2-302AM (Front Upper Arm Holder) $21.60
Y4-203A (Aluminum Servo Mounts) $21.50
Y2-301AC (Adjustable Suspension Mount Kit) $63
Y2-202V (Adjustable Steering Kit) $95
Y2-500GSA (Upgraded Gear Diff) $48
Y2-304S (Special Motor Mount Fan Ready) $32
******YD2SX*******
TOTAL MSRP $864.6
Compared to what comes standard:
YD2-SX Chassis Kit = MSRP $600 ($264.60 Savings)

SUMMARY:

If you start with a YD2S and upgrade piece by piece, you will save $82 when you reach the YD2S Plug Level and $264.60 by the time you reach a YD2-SX Level if you had purchased a YD2SX from the beginning.

If you start with a YD2S-Plus and upgrade piece by piece, you will save $182.60 when you reach the YD2SX Level had you purchased a YD2SX from the beginning.

After taking a look at the breakdown, most people can understand why we say the YD2SX is the one. You save $264.60 off buying everything retail(based on the standard model). With the enormous savings, you can purchase the Super-G YD2SX Final Stage kit! It will complete your YD2SX:

YD2SX Final Stage Upgrade Kit (SP Knuckles, Upper/ Short Lower Arms, Adj Rear, Rear Carriers) [Yokomo] YD-2SX

 

You can browse our parts and chassis kits here

http://supergdrift.com/store/product-category/chassis-parts/yokomo-parts/yd2/

 

 

 

 

 

 

What Goes On During Judging

July 28, 2018

At our weekly Fun Comps, the Saturday Night Showdowns, judging has always, and will always be a complicated issue. I and a group of consultants have put in a lot of time and effort to come up with the best judging guideline we could. For myself, this has been a very stressful project, and although on the surface it may seem like only a few pages, but to get there has been a really huge task. I was glad to see our final revision put to the test and I have to say judging has never been easier or smoother. For those who were never a part of judging prior to this, all I can say is it was considerably more difficult. Imagine making a call based on 3 different sets of rules, and you get one person who insists on a rule that the other 2 never even heard of. Sometimes it wasn’t very pleasant and definitely was not consistent.

After the last Showdown, I was lucky enough to find myself in a conversation with someone who obviously felt a bit cheated on the judging. Of course I wanted to hear what their thoughts were and make any necessary adjustments if needed. The topic was based on their run and how they were penalized on something they felt nobody else was being penalized for. There can be a few reasons for this:

1 – After each round, we as the judges will announce what swayed the decision. “Tim advances due to Joe spinning out on his lead run”.
Or
2 – As they were listening in on the judging, they didn’t hear the penalty that applied to them come up other than when it was judged for their run.

EVERYONE INVOLVED NEEDS TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THE FOLLOWING:
We do not have a single person competing who is pulling off perfect runs. Not a single person.

So what does that mean? It still doesn’t address the issue of why someone lost for a reason not given prior to their run, and possibly even after.

In each run there are many different situations being considered at any given time. No two runs are identical, and the judges are making their decisions based on the most obvious or most heavily weighted errors. The more skilled drivers end up being scrutinized more severely than we’ll say a beginner. That does NOT mean they are judged any differently than the beginner, it means their mistakes will not be as big or as obvious.

*Note:
Every judge should go into every round fresh, knowing anything can and will happen. There should be no predetermined winner in mind, or any type of performance expected. Every round is anyone’s to win. First timer or seasoned veteran, you just never know.

Example A – The Beginner
The typical beginner may have a hard time holding the qualifying line. There will probably be a lot of corrections, erratic driving, slowing when they shouldn’t, shallow angle, missed clips, etc.

The judges will take this all into account when making their decision. Although all this is going on throughout the run, the statement of, “They made a huge correction in turn 3”  or “They missed clip 2” may be stated by one of the judges. Basically pointing out something that is probably going to sway things the most. This doesn’t mean that is the only issue, it simply means that’s the one that stands out the most.

When the results are announced, either reason will probably be given. The long, itemized list of other errors will not.

Example B – The Veteran
The typical Veteran will be able to pull off some very decent runs. Maintaining the qualifying line is probably not an issue. Hitting clips, not an issue. Maintaining angle, not an issue. However, there will be some mistakes being made. Depending on who is competing, these errors may come into play.

When evaluating the run of the Veteran, the same exact things are being considered in Example A and B. ALL THE SAME RULES APPLY TO BOTH. The main difference is, the Veteran isn’t having issues with the qualifying line or erratic driving, but they are still being judged on it. If the Veteran manages to pull off a near perfect run, you may hear something such as, “Their angle was a bit shallow on clip 4” or “They had to reach a bit for clip 1” These are the key points that MAY come into play on the following run. This doesn’t mean that is the only thing they were being judged on, it simply means these are the “Worst” incidents of the run.

If on the following run this same driver cannot maintain proximity with the Lead Car, when their loss is announced, the reason given will be “The Chase did not maintain proximity”. The other points aren’t given, they were just observations “Just in case”.

Example C – How This Is Applied
When 2 competitors are closely matched in skill and ability, the judges need to be very critical of the performance of both, especially if both are capable of laying down near perfect runs. For arguments sake, we will say both Lead and Chase runs are identical with the exception of Lead Car “A” ALMOST missing a clip while Lead Car “B” was as deep as possible in the same clip.

After an extremely clean lead and chase, you might hear, “The only thing I saw was “A” almost missed clip 1.” Basically looking for anything that might sway the decision if it comes down to that.

If a One More Time “OMT” is not an option, the decision would be based on Lead Car “A” not following the qualifying line as well as Lead Car “B”. This in no way suggests they were judged any differently than any other competitor during the entire comp, it is simply judged that way based on the level of performance of both drivers. Both were held to the same standard as the competitor in Example A, but the key factor was not a factor in Example A.

Being a part of judging and listening in can be very beneficial to everyone. Competitors will learn exactly what is being looked at and why certain decisions are made. There is a lot of reasoning behind certain calls, and it can greatly affect decisions made during their runs.

My personal take on the issue presented, before anyone feels the judging was unfair toward them,  they need to ask themselves a few questions:

  • Could it be POSSIBLE I did what the judges called me on?
  • If roles were reversed, would I feel losing would be the correct call for me?
  • Can I see everything that is going on, and concentrate on driving?
  • Am I so good, I can see what I’m doing and what my competitor is doing at all times?
  • Do I know the rules better than the judges?
  • Is my opinion completely unbiased?

Remember guys, judging is not easy. If you think it is, then you definitely are not ready to judge. If you aren’t ready to judge,
THEN PLEASE LEAVE THE JUDGING TO THE JUDGES.

Super-G Competition Judging Guide Rev. 1.0

July 26, 2018:

As many of you are aware, here at Super-G R/C Drift Arena we have been hosting weekly Fun Comps we call the Saturday Night Showdowns. It all started with us wanting to provide the community with a place to come together and test skills, while keeping it fun and as low pressure as possible. Well, the pressure part doesn’t really go away, and in fact, it brings out the competitive nature in most of the participants. It became quickly apparent our loose rules and idea of keeping it very casual just wasn’t going to cut it. Competitors come for fun, but also to compete and win.

Ever since we had started Super-G we have been searching for “The Rules for R/C Drift” and as we came to find out, even in Japan there are something like 17 different ways to judge. (My number may be off, but it was in the teens for sure) Our Fun Comps have been judged by volunteers who bring their own ideas on what they want to see, but the problem is the lack of consistency.  In 1:1 Drifting different judges want to see different things, we get that, however when you are rotating judges throughout the night, that doesn’t quite work.

So we set out to bring some consistency to our judging. We had the perfect opportunity with our weekly Saturday Night Showdowns. So we gathered a team of consultants who were active in the Fun Comps and we started  laying out the rules. Of course the most obvious first, that was the easy part. We would put the rules into play the following week and see what issues would arise. Every week we made great strides in narrowing down unique situations that needed to be addressed.

We are now to the point where we all feel comfortable with the rules. They seem to cover most of the situations we encounter, but of course there will always be something that is not covered. What started out as a Judging Guide for our Fun Comps has evolved into a solid set of rules we will be using for our Official Comps also.

Never Mind the Tuning! It’s all Chassis.

This past week has been an interesting one.
I suppose there have been a lot of opinions brewing and it took a single post to ignite strong emotions in some people. I must admit I needed to walk away for a moment, then try to find some sort of humor in the post, but the fact remains, there were more than a few people who were bothered.  The DMs have prompted this post.


MST RMX 2.0s

I have been thinking about how to approach this, and I have decided the best way is to address this head on. This past week someone posted in the Super-G Group and called the Yokomo YD-2 SX a Cheater Car / Chassis and went on to defend the statement by saying it holds more speed and angle EASIER than the others. Basically implying there is some sort of unfair advantage attached to this particular chassis. I am choosing to believe it was meant as a joke, but somehow people got caught up. I have to admit it rubbed me the wrong way. It was further fueled by trying to defend the statement and in turn calling the RMX 2.0s a “good beginner car”. I personally do not agree with this statement in the least. In fact, it was a bit of a bummer reading that. I believe the RMX 2.0s is a great chassis and very capable for even the most experienced drivers.


Yokomo YD-2S

Tuning and Setup:
Most of us know tuning and setup are the key to success in R/C. R/C Drift is no different.  Of course there are limitations to the different chassis setups, but ultimately R/C is about customization. We have seen many Frankenstein chassis (parts from different chassis combined into one) perform really well. It just depends how far you want to go with it, and your knowledge of what each part will do to/for the setup. One of our former RawFew teammates, Tyler Watt was the Frankenstein Master in my opinion. His cars always drove amazing, regardless of what chassis he started with. Sprint 2, D3, you name it. A prime example of someone with a firm grasp on tuning. All my cars are in some way a Frankenstein build since I usually experiment with a few different brand components. This is part of my tuning style and I’m sure many of you out there do the same.

Let’s see what the numbers tell us:
We have been running competitions almost every Saturday night for the past 3 months. We get a wide range of competitors with different tuning styles and chassis setups.  Below are the stats grouped by chassis.

First Place Finishes:
4 – MST RMX 2.0s
3 – Yokomo YD-2S
1 – WrapUp Next VX Concept
1 – Yokomo YD-2

The most popular chassis we are seeing here at Super-G at the moment and their Podium Finishes (3rd or better):
13 – Yokomo YD-2S  
6 – MST RMX 2.0s
2 – WrapUp Next VX Concept
2 – MRD WrapUp Next Conversion
2 – Yokomo YD-2
MST FXX-D
Usukani PDS

To keep things in perspective, The majority are running YD-2S, so it’s to be expected to see more on the podium. A typical line up for any given night:
8 – Yokomo YD-2S
4 – MST RMX 2.0s
3 – Yokomo YD-2
2 – Usukani PDS
1 – WrapUp Next VX Concept
1 – WrapUp Next MRD Conversion
1 – MST FXX-D


Last Week’s Podium:
1st Place – RMX 2.0s (Kris). 2nd Place – YD-2S (Mikko). 3rd Place – WrapUp Next MRD (John). 4th Place – YD-2S (Shaine). (I had to use this pic cause it’s too good!)

So what am I getting at:
Because of this past week, it prompted me to take a look at the numbers to see if there was truly a pattern and if the “Cheater Car” statement was valid in the slightest. I have to say my original thoughts are correct and the numbers back it up.

There are many capable chassis out there, and in the right hands they can prove to be a deadly weapon in competition, but there is no guaranteed winner and no easy road to first place. I still hold firmly on my belief that a properly tuned chassis in the right hands can be a winner. A chassis which comes with a great setup sheet out of the box will perform better than a chassis with a poor setup sheet out of the box for it’s initial run. This is hardly an indication of which chassis is superior. It may or may not be a better starting point for the experienced tuner, but for the beginner a good initial setup is definitely a less painful path to take.

The original poster has made the mistake of comparing tunes on different chassis, and believing it’s the chassis making the difference rather than the tune. I really wish they would have started from the setup that came with their new chassis, rather than to discount the countless hours of research, trial, and error that went into the setup sheet they were given. If they had gone that route, maybe they would appreciate a solid setup and realize it’s really not that easy and a good driving chassis isn’t always just handed to you by the manufacturer.

Ok guys, BACK TO THE FUN!!!
Forgive and forget?

CURVED SCISSORS SHOOT OUT: WHICH ONE FOR YOUR BODY?

Everybody always ask which scissors are the best?

We decided to do a little bit of comparing. Most scissors are similar in price and size. But the biggest difference is the blade.

We’ve been using Yokomo and Associated scissors as long as we’ve been using Kyosho scissors but theres one that has more of an edge than the others.

Here’s some comparison photos:

So there you have it. The KYOSHO ones have the most angle. So in those really tight places, they outshine the others. BUT, we’ve never used a pair of Associated or Yokomo and thought they were inadequate. The Associated is the cheapest of the bunch, but still is great. The Yokomo ones feel pretty good quality but yields the highest price. The Kyosho is really affordable and cuts great!

 

Grab your set today:

Curved Body Scissors (Racing Factory) [Kyosho]