Category Archives: Tech

YD2 Slide Rack Setup Tips (Team Yokomo)

Team Yokomo: YD2SX2 / Roundly Steering Rack Setup

In this article we will show you how to fine tune the new curved slide rack for our award winning YD-2 drift chassis series. Team YOKOMO developed a slide rack that gives optimal steering characteristics using the latest drift settings. As well as the arc movement of the rack, giving better Ackerman control and feel, it is mounted at an angle that matches the movement of the suspension, helping to almost eliminate bump steer. We have only just released it and already it has earned high praise from many drivers over a short period of time.
It will be installed as standard on the new drift chassis kit the “YD-2SX II” which will be on sale soon.

 Y2-202 SRE Curve slide rack set for YD-2E series ¥ 17,600 (excluding tax)
Y2-202 SRS YD-2S Series Curved Slide Rack Set ¥ 14,200 (excluding tax)

The movement of the steering rack is adjusted by rotating the bearings on the supporting rail and the bearing posts are an eccentric cam design. Here we will inform you of some helpful tips to further improve the new steering racks accuracy. We recommend assembling the slide rack itself but leave the bearings and posts loosely to begin with. Please ensure the adjustable bearing posts are temporarily tightened in this position.

There is a mark on the head of each bearing post that are made into an eccentric cam, the side with this mark is thickest and the clearance becomes tight if you turn the mark toward the rail side. Since the clearance is fully open in the image above, first rotate the posts B and C and tighten the screws so that the mark is closest to the rail. If B and C are not symmetrical, a left and right difference will occur in the movement of the rail, so be sure they are symmetrical.

パーツの個体差もあるので調整範囲が変わると思いますが、撮影に使用したスライドラックは上画像のポストの位置が最適となりました。実際の走行ではごみやほこりの侵入、パーツの摩耗、気温の変化による金属類の変形等によってもクリアランスは変化することになりますので、走行前には一旦サーボロッドを外すなどして、ステアリングが軽く作動することを確認して下さい。


 

Finally post A needs to be adjusted to remove any additional play. From here, gradually rotate the A post to take up the play, but please operate the rail by hand before and after adjustment to check that the movement is still smooth on the bearings, if it’s set too tight it will damage the bearings and the rack. Although our manufacturing tolerances are the closest they can be the adjustment range may differ and it’s possible to have slight differences in the parts. Most of the time the position of the posts on the top image is the optimal position for the slide rack. After a while the clearance may change due to dust ingress and wear. Metals also expand slightly with changes in temperature, so before driving your chassis we recommend removing the servo link and confirm that it still works perfectly with no binding or excessive play. The bearings we use are of the highest quality and will work for many cycles if set correctly with no binding. Adjustment of the bearing posts can take a lot of play from the front and back of the rail but there is also a slight clearance in the vertical direction. This is there to ensure that your new steering rack operates smoothly right away and does not cause premature wear of the aluminium or carbon parts.


 

The image above is from the side of the slide rack, since the thickness of the aluminum rail is larger than the thickness of the bearing, there is a slight clearance above the bearing. This is there to absorb any individual differences of parts etc. but if when you assemble the steering and find there is a lot of play you can also remove any up and down play if you require. Simply add a shim between the bearings on the posts to reduce the clearance until any play has gone. Once you have done the following please check the movement is still smooth and be aware that decreasing the clearance may have a negative effect on the wear rate of parts or cause binding if it is done incorrectly.

The shim we recommend is 4.0mm ID stainless steel precision cut (ZC-S40S 450), 0.05mm, 0.1mm, 0.2mm thick shims supplied as a set. Team yokomo measured many different parts and found the thickness of the rail was about 6.0mm and the thickness of the two bearings was around 5.9 mm, so theoretically there is no clearance when using a 0.1 mm shim. We suggest to try using a 0.1 mm shim first and check if this is good with less free play.

The response of the steering will change by adjusting the slide rack to have minimal play. In some extreme cases the gyro can over compensate (malfunction) if there is excessive play in the steering affecting the stability and feel of the chassis. We believe careful assembly will lead to better chassis performance.

Please also remember the tolerances inside the bearings can change, especially with precision parts adjusted to give optimum performance this makes it difficult to keep smooth without any play at all. For future maintenance and smooth operation please check the steering regularly for any binding.

Grab a set of the correct shims here:

 

4.0mm Spacer Stainless Steel Shims (.05mm / .1mm .2mm) (30-Pack) [Yokomo] ZC-S40S

 

Which Chassis and Why

Being a shop that sells R/C Drift exclusively, we get a lot people asking which chassis would be the best for them. Since most of this happens in store, we have the opportunity to break it down for them while taking a few factors into account. It’s a little more difficult when we see this same question posted online due to many factors. There is a lot of great advice out there, and there is a lot of bad advice as well. It’s up to you to decide which is credible and which is not. In fact, you should be asking yourself if I am even credible.

We encounter a few different types of buyers and each come with their own unique needs. What we first tell them is, they really need to be honest with themselves. The decision they make on their first setup can greatly affect the amount they spend in the long run. I believe right from the start, the first thing that should be looked at is what type of person are you? Are you the type that is content with just good enough, or are you the type to want all the good stuff? I fall into the later and ultimately could have saved quite a bit if I made the right choice at the start. If you are the type that will have everything upgraded in the next month or two, you should consider the kits that include some hop-ups already. You will save roughly 30% off your upgrade journey.

Although choosing the right chassis seems like a life decision, keep in mind most people seem to change chassis about once a year. Some keep them longer, some have multiple chassis throughout the year, but on average it seems to cycle around the 1 year mark.

If you are new to R/C Drift, (notice I worded it R/C Drift, NOT just R/C) Most likely even your past R/C knowledge will not be enough to get you where you want to be right away. R/C Drift is a different animal than any other discipline of R/C, so it’s not easy to just start out and be the superstar of the track. The main point I always stress is:

Find out what people are running where you plan to spend most of your time drifting, and go that route. There will be a ton of help and you will spend more time drifting, and less time being frustrated. You Will Need Help.

There is plenty of time to be unique later with the ultra rare chassis, but when you are first starting out, it will benefit you to be able to share tips and setups.

When choosing your first R/C Drift chassis, you will hear a ton of advice. Some good and some really bad. Some of the common, bad ones we often come across are:

1. Any chassis can be good. Yes and No.
YES – If you REALLY know what you are doing, AND you are ok throwing a bunch of money at it.
NO – If both of those statements don’t apply to you. If you’re just starting out, this is a huge NO!

We have seen many people make their initial investment in a difficult chassis, struggle alone since there is nobody familiar with their chassis or how to set it up, and finally just disappear and blow out their full setup on Craigslist.

2. The clones are just as good, just cost less.
NO – We have yet to see a good performing clone, Period.

Just don’t. Maybe later down the line when you are well versed in turning and you know exactly what you are after, then try to tackle a project like this, but for now, focus on a good, solid foundation.

Ready To Run (RTR)
Aimed toward the person who needs an entire setup. They don’t own a remote, electronics, etc. They are also trying to start out on a budget of sub $500.

The only RTR we can recommend at this time is the MST RMX 2.0 RTR.

Things to consider:
This is intended to get you going in R/C Drift. The chassis itself is the same as the regular RMX 2.0, with only a couple small differences that can be changed to be the same for a $50-$100.

It comes pre-built and tested from the factory. This means you don’t need to worry about all the small details of setting it up correctly. you just pull it out of the box and you are good to go. The tires even have a little wear on them from the test run at MST.

It comes pre-built, so you didn’t build it yourself. This means when something goes wrong (and it will), you will need to learn how to fix it. If you built it yourself, you would already be familiar with how the car works and goes together.

The RTR electronics are meant to just get you going. There are a lot of electronics out there that are better quality and more pricy. There is a reason why people are willing the drop the extra cash on them. The electronics included will get you up and going, but you will be upgrading soon. This is a key point.

Reality:
You are not really saving money, you are just able to get started for a lower initial investment. It is the cheapest way to get into the hobby.

Base Kits:
Yokomo YD-2E and YD-2S
MST RMX 2.0s
These chassis kits come in “kit” form. This means you build it yourself. We always recommend this route since knowing how it all goes together is invaluable. You will need to fix it on occasion, so either you become an expert from the start, or you struggle every time something goes wrong. All 3 are mainly plastic and are considered Entry Level. All 3 drive excellent out of the box and all 3 can be fully upgraded. Also note, these are all very capable chassis out of the box. That’s not to say the upgrades aren’t needed or don’t make a difference, because they do. It simply means in the right hands, there is no reason you wouldn’t see these very chassis on the podium at your local comp.

Yokomo YD-2E and YD-2S:
Yokomo is the larger of the 2 companies and as of recent, have really been pushing the development of their YD-2 line. They have been steadily releasing new upgrades. Some feel it’s too often, some like the innovation. The YD-2 line also has a lot of 3rd party support, but keep in mind, not all the 3rd party products are good or even tested. We have seen a lot of “upgrades” actually hurt performance. So buyer beware. If you like constantly changing and upgrading parts, Yokomo is really the clear choice of the two companies I am discussing.

YD-2E:
Based on the original YD-2 design, it has a Low Center of Gravity (LCG) setup, with a standard gearbox and a low mounted motor. It was intended for standard to high-traction conditions.


YD-2S:
It has introduced a tub style chassis and lay-down gearbox. The lay-down gearbox mounts the motor high, High Center of Gravity (HCG) giving it more “Weight Shift” and theoretically more traction for standard to low-traction conditions.

MST (Max Speed Technology) RMX 2.0s:
MST has been a player for a long time and has always put out high quality products. There is not a lot of 3rd party support, but MST always brings upgrades that work really well. They designed the chassis, they design the upgrades, it’s a winning combination. Their upgrades are some of the nicest I’ve seen, but typically come with a price tag to match. If you like upgrading once and sticking with it, MST is the way to go. They typically will release a couple versions of . upgrades, and then they move on. You can count on their upgrades making a difference and also being top quality.

RMX 2.0s:
In my opinion the RMX 2.0s was MST’s answer to Yokomo’s YD-2. The YD-2 S appears to be Yokomo’s answer to the RMX 2.0s. The RMX 2.0s comes with a bevel gear gearbox giving it a more compact design. It also allows you to chose between mounting the motor high or low, giving you a High Center of Gravity (HCG) and a Low Center of Gravity (LCG) setup in one chassis. It’s nice to be able to experiment and find what fits your driving style without having to commit to an entirely different chassis.

Conclusion:
This is based on the many customers who come through our doors here at Super-G. We have worked with many people who have gone about this in so many different ways. We would just like to save you guys the frustration if possible.

For someone just getting into the hobby, the Yokomo YD-2 line and the MST RMX 2.0s are the leading choices. These are the most popular Rear Wheel Drive chassis with the most support and knowledge at the moment. I own both and can recommend them both very highly.

If you stick to these 3 or the upgraded versions, you will be on your way with a solid chassis. What you do from there is up to you, but you can feel confident it’s not your chassis holding you back.
GOOD LUCK!
KEEP DRIFT FUN!

CHECK THEM ALL OUT HERE:
MST RMX 2.0 RTR
MST RMX 2.0 RTR (Bodyless)
MST RMX 2.0s (LCG/HCG)
Yokomo YD-2S (HCG)
Yokomo YD-2E (LCG)
The Full Line Up

FIRST LOOK: Yokomo DX1 Type R Motor (D1 Comparisons)

Super-G finally got their hands on the first batch of DX-1 Series Motors from Yokomo. The Type-R has been shipped out, but the Type-T is still a few weeks away.

A little DX1 history: TYPE-R (HIGH RPM) and TYPE-T (HIGH TORQUE). One should feature more torque, and one has a smoother rev.

We decided to compare the D1 Spec versus the new DX1. Both are 10.5T. So here we go:

The package is the same, they both come with the same sensor cable.

Cosmetically, they’re very similar, the DX1 seems to be more “exposed”. This will most likely benefit cooling properties.

Seems like the both the front and the back of the motor looks almost identical to its old counterparts.

Looking at the etching on the shaft, looks like the old and new share the same specs?

We have a 2gram weight reduction from old to new.

The DX1 features a little chart for you to refer to as a tuning guide.

Our initial testing felt it was slightly smoother. The D1 may have more torque than the DX1? We have to do more testing. One thing is apparent, the DX1 generates more heat. The chart says is essential to use a cooling fan. We will add that and do more testing.

Grab yours today!

Racing Performer DX1 Type-R Type-T Brushless Motor RP [Yokomo] RPM-DX1R RPM-DX1T

YD2 Buyer’s Guide! There are over 14 YD2’s WHICH ONE AND WHY?

A lot of people have asked about which YD2 they should purchase and why? With Yokomo releasing over 14 variations, it can get quite confusing! Especially if you are not certain of what is the same and compatible.

Here’s a brief run down of the models available on the market, and their retail price:

Original YD2 Series (Available at Launch of YD2)
*All the YD2 classics are replaced with the E Line now
DP-YD2
– DRIFT PACKAGE YD-2 – 218.00
DP-YD2G – DRIFT PACKAGE YD-2 with GYRO YG-302 – 255.00
DP-YD2PLS – DRIFT PACKAGE YD-2 PLUS – 429.00
DP-YD-2EX – YD-2 EX Chassis KIT- 600.00
Revised YD2 Series (Features Shorter Front A-Arms and Reduced Rear Toe)
DP-YD2E
– DRIFT PACKAGE YD-2E – 218.00
DP-YD2EG – YD-2E Chassis KIT (with YG-302 gyro) – 255.00
DP-YD2ES – YD-2E Special KIT- 305.00
DP-YD2EPLS
– YD-2E Plus Chassis KIT – 426.00
DP-YD2EX2 – YD-2 EXII Chassis KIT – 600.00
DP-YD2EXF – YD-2 EX Final Version Chassis KIT – 600.00
Newest YD2 S-Series (4 Gear Laydown Transmission & High Motor Mount)
DP-YD2S –  YD-2S Chassis KIT – 218.00
DP-YD2SG – YD-2S Chassis kit with YG-302 Gyro – 255.00
DP-YD2SS – YD-2S SPECIAL KIT – 305.00
DP-YD2S-PL – YD-2S Plus Car KIT (CARBON GRAPHITE) – 405.00
DP-YD2SX
– YD-2SX CHASSIS KIT – 600.00

Different Series:

In a nutshell, the original YD2 series featured the regular length front A-Arms and standard low mounting motor plate. As for the new YD2-E Series, it features the newer revised front end which are low scrub and slight changes like reduced rear toe. The E-Series pretty much replaced the original YD2 series, but they’re very similar. The E Series features LCG (lower center gravity).
E-Series:

S-Series:

The S-Series features the greatest change. They all come with the laydown 4 gear transmission, updated lower arms and reduced toe. This new transmission puts the motor on top. This new configuration really makes the S-Series a high traction setup. This VRM setup lets you position your motor 3 ways right out of the box. An upgraded motor mount is available for more positions. This S-Line stands for SPECIALIZED FOR SLIPPERY SURFACE. The lineup features a hybrid type chassis deck. It has plastic side guards and an optional carbon side plate covers. The entire S-Line can ONLY use shorty sized battery due to this design. The revised 4 gear lay down transmission also delivers extra traction.

A lot of people at Super-G are rocking a YD2-S Line car. Almost 99% of all YD2’s at our track are running the S Series. The higher traction chassis is definite a great choice!

Different Models and Editions:


As usual, Yokomo features a few variations of each YD2 line.  The basic model come as a kit. This is the “ALL PLASTIC/BASE” model. You can get into the car for cheap, but there are no upgrades besides turnbuckles. They offer a GYRO version(since most new chassis customers will require one), They always give you a slight price break when you get the Gyro Version vs buying it a la carte.

Example:
YD2E (YD2E Base Model) $218
YG-302 Gyro $49
TOTAL MSRP $267
Compared to what comes standard:
YD2EG (Base E Kit & Gyro) = MSRP $255 ($12 Savings)

The savings does not just stop there, Yokomo also offers a “PLUS” Version of all their cars. Although it doesn’t come with a Gyro, it comes with a few cool upgrades. The PLUS features upgraded SLF Big Bore shocks(Metal), Aluminum Front Shock Tower, Carbon Rear Shock Tower, and Carbon Fiber Lower Deck.

Example:
YD2S (YD-2S Base) $218.00
Y2-SBBS (SLF Big Bore Shock Set) $79
Y2-017AFE (Front Aluminum Shock Tower for EX/S Series) $45
Y2-018SG (Carbon Graphite Rear Shock Tower for S Series) $25
Y2-002SG (Carbon Main Deck) $120
TOTAL MSRP $487
Compared to what comes standard:
YD2S PLUS Chassis Kit = MSRP $405.00 ($82 Savings)

Now that you see the math, you’ll see why picking a higher tier car is worth while if you can swing it. We’ve recommended people saving a little longer just to move up to the next tier. The YD2SX is definitely the top choice pick. You save a HUGE amount of money in the long run. Everybody ends up upgrading almost everything over time, the YD2-SX comes almost 90% hopped up. There are almost limited edition and special editions which feature various hopups at a savings. These have limited production and are not readily available once they’re sold out.

YD2SX BREAKDOWN:

Here’s the biggest comparison:
YD2S (YD-2S Base) $218.00
Y2-SBBS (SLF Big Bore Shock Set) $79
Y2-017AFE (Front Aluminum Shock Tower for EX/S Series) $45
Y2-018SG (Carbon Graphite Rear Shock Tower for S Series) $25
Y2-002SG (Carbon Main Deck) $120
*******YD2S PLUS*******

Y2-002SB (Carbon Side Plate Covers) $33.50
Y2-302SA
(Aluminum Front Bulk Head Set) $63

Y2-302AM (Front Upper Arm Holder) $21.60
Y4-203A (Aluminum Servo Mounts) $21.50
Y2-301AC (Adjustable Suspension Mount Kit) $63
Y2-202V (Adjustable Steering Kit) $95
Y2-500GSA (Upgraded Gear Diff) $48
Y2-304S (Special Motor Mount Fan Ready) $32
******YD2SX*******
TOTAL MSRP $864.6
Compared to what comes standard:
YD2-SX Chassis Kit = MSRP $600 ($264.60 Savings)

SUMMARY:

If you start with a YD2S and upgrade piece by piece, you will save $82 when you reach the YD2S Plug Level and $264.60 by the time you reach a YD2-SX Level if you had purchased a YD2SX from the beginning.

If you start with a YD2S-Plus and upgrade piece by piece, you will save $182.60 when you reach the YD2SX Level had you purchased a YD2SX from the beginning.

After taking a look at the breakdown, most people can understand why we say the YD2SX is the one. You save $264.60 off buying everything retail(based on the standard model). With the enormous savings, you can purchase the Super-G YD2SX Final Stage kit! It will complete your YD2SX:

YD2SX Final Stage Upgrade Kit (SP Knuckles, Upper/ Short Lower Arms, Adj Rear, Rear Carriers) [Yokomo] YD-2SX

 

You can browse our parts and chassis kits here

http://supergdrift.com/store/product-category/chassis-parts/yokomo-parts/yd2/

 

 

 

 

 

 

HOWTO: Custom Mixed Tamiya PS Paint (DIY COLORS) (NO AIRBRUSH REQUIRED)

A lot of people have been having a hard time jumping on to the airbrush game. Some that own airbrush systems feel it’s a lot of prep and cleanup to paint a body.

We have an airbrush system ourselves, but just seems to much of a production to use it. The topic of certain colors like Pastel Grey always comes up, instead of trying some adhesive promoter and some other kinds of plastic friendly spray paints that still don’t work as good as regular Tamiya Polycarbonate Paint (PS Line).

We decided to give it a go with this “instant” DIY spray paint system. Not only is it affordable, it’s fairly easy to use.

Please visit: https://preval.com for more info

What you need:
1 x PREVAL SPRAY PAINT SYSTEM
(https://www.homedepot.com/p/Preval-Sprayer-2-Pack-0225/203826736)
1 x Acetone 1qt.
(https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-qt-Acetone-QAC18/100144922)
Various Tamiya Spray(PS) Paints to mix with.

The PREVAL paint spray paint system come with glass jar and spray canister. We wanted to get close to the infamous Pastel Gray.

We started with Purple Spray and sprayed a good amount into the glass jar. We started mixing in yellow(Almost a 3:1 Purple:Yellow). We would close the lid and shake it for a minute to ensure an even mixture.

We almost emptied 3/4 of the purple into the glass jar. We kept adding in yellow to get to the correct HUE of GRAY.

We continue to shake and spray(to mix it up). We keep looking at the paint on the bottom of the cap to see what color has been achieved. With some trial and error, we were able to get to a decent gray color. It was a tad on the darker side.

We grabbed our PS1(Tamiya White) and kept adding more and more until the correct shade has been achieved.

One the correct color is mixed, make sure you have 1/3~1/2 of the glass bottle full. You will now splash in a good amount of acetone until the paint has a water like viscosity. IF YOU DO NOT THIN OUT THE TAMIYA PAINT, THE PAINT SYSTEM WILL HAVE A HARD TIME SPRAY IT OUT. If you run out of paint, you’ll be doomed(since this is a custom mixed color). We would recommend trying to get the paint 1/2 ~ 2/3 full.

Re-close the jar and keep shaking, try to get the paint inside the glass jar as uniform as you can.  Once it’s ready to go, attach the spray part and be mindful of the vent hole(look on the cap) so you’ll know where the paint can come up. The instructions recommend you use the spray at 45 or 90 degrees, and this seems to be true if you want paint to come out. Make sure you do some testing to figure out how it sprays.

Now on to the car. Just like painting with regular Tamiya cans, it’s about the same work. We waited for the paint to dry a little in between coats. After a few light coats, your dream color should take shape!

As you see, we got pretty close to the color we were shooting for(Pastel Gray). You can probably play with the colors to achieve amazing colors. You can lighten or darken the shade of color to(by simply adding white or black).


PRESTO: **THE REVEAL**

We still have a lot more detail to add to this body, but the color did come out pretty nice. It’s close to Pastel Gray. We will be making more custom colors for sure! Clean up is easy(Just throw it away). You can also cap the paint and save it for later use. They do offer just the SPRAY portion for a few bucks less.

We are going to play with adding METALLIC BLUE or METALLIC RED to BLACK. It might give us black with red or blue pearl? Who knows!

You can purchase ACETONE and the SPRAY PAINT SYSTEM at Home Depot and any Auto/Home Paint Supplier. We will be adding the spray system to our online store shortly as soon as they approve our account.

Yokomo YD2 ADJUSTABLE SHORT REAR H Arm Kit [Super-G First Look] Y2-008RAS

The long awaited short rear H arms are here! We have been waiting a long time to try narrowing the track width in the rear. A lot of people run the regular Aluminum Arms but at the narrowest setting wishing they can go more.

The answer is here! These short arms are quite a bit shorter than the regular aluminum ones. As usual, these arms comes with standard hardware along with a pair of 0.5mm, 1.0mm and 2.0mm shims to space out your arms.

Just lining them up real quick shows how much shorter they are. They should definitely be a great upgrade! We can’t to get these on our cars and test. It’s a good month for YD2 owners. So many new stuff coming out.

Here we go comparing them right next to the standard arms.

You can grab yourself a set today:

YD2 Adjustable Rear Lower H SHORT Arms Set [Yokomo] Y2-008RAS

Yokomo Side Diffuser / Front Splitter HAS ARRIVED [SUPER-G FIRST LOOK]

Yokomo’s latest greatest has arrived. We couldn’t wait to check them out and see how they perform and look!

Here’s a quick view of what’s inside.

Here’s some closeups of the front splitter. They shaped it VERY low profile so that it can all fit together without sacrificing too much ground clearance.

The 2nd part sticks on right flush with the front.

Now onto the side pieces!

They do make the car look pretty damn cool. Probably reminds some of us when we first saw the Pikes Peak ESCUDO. They give you the correct hardware to get it all working.

Here it is with some close ups.

The side pieces replaces the top CF pieces. It contours the YD2-S chassis perfectly. It doesn’t seem to hang lower than the chassis(that’s a relief). The side profile looks like it directs the air perfectly. Look at the profile and how the wheels match up to it.

Now comes the best part! ROAD TEST! We’re going to take it on the road and see what these things can do. While you wait for us to test, you can grab yours today! We were able to lock down a small amount of both:

Undertray Diffuser set w/Adhesive Tape for YD-2 [Yokomo] Y2-001BD

Side Diffuser set w/Mounting Screws for YD-2 S series [Yokomo] Y2-001SD

 

New Yokomo Shorty Lipos (FIRST LOOK) 7/30/18

The wait is over! The 4600mah Shorty just came in and we compared it with the other new 3500 Shorty. These are the newest “affordable” shorty lipo’s Yokomo released this year. They were happy to bring to the market a more affordable shorty sized lipo.

This is probably because their S-Line Yokomo YD2 takes ONLY shorty batteries.

Let’s dive right into it:

Now its time for some detailed looks. We’re going to compare the size, the weight and overall everything.

4600mah

3500mah

The sizing is very similar, just thickness differs. Weight is about 55grams apart.

Looks like the bullet location has changed slightly. The size is the same, but location is different. This might be why Yokomo released a little writeup about bullet connectors and their YD2 battery holders the other day.

You can grab yours today by clicking below, we have both in stock:

YOKOMO Li-po 4600mAh 100C 2S 7.4V Shorty LIPO Battery [Yokomo] YB-V246B

YOKOMO Li-po 3500mAh 100C 2S 7.4V Shorty LIPO Battery [Yokomo] YB-V235B

 

What Goes On During Judging

July 28, 2018

At our weekly Fun Comps, the Saturday Night Showdowns, judging has always, and will always be a complicated issue. I and a group of consultants have put in a lot of time and effort to come up with the best judging guideline we could. For myself, this has been a very stressful project, and although on the surface it may seem like only a few pages, but to get there has been a really huge task. I was glad to see our final revision put to the test and I have to say judging has never been easier or smoother. For those who were never a part of judging prior to this, all I can say is it was considerably more difficult. Imagine making a call based on 3 different sets of rules, and you get one person who insists on a rule that the other 2 never even heard of. Sometimes it wasn’t very pleasant and definitely was not consistent.

After the last Showdown, I was lucky enough to find myself in a conversation with someone who obviously felt a bit cheated on the judging. Of course I wanted to hear what their thoughts were and make any necessary adjustments if needed. The topic was based on their run and how they were penalized on something they felt nobody else was being penalized for. There can be a few reasons for this:

1 – After each round, we as the judges will announce what swayed the decision. “Tim advances due to Joe spinning out on his lead run”.
Or
2 – As they were listening in on the judging, they didn’t hear the penalty that applied to them come up other than when it was judged for their run.

EVERYONE INVOLVED NEEDS TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THE FOLLOWING:
We do not have a single person competing who is pulling off perfect runs. Not a single person.

So what does that mean? It still doesn’t address the issue of why someone lost for a reason not given prior to their run, and possibly even after.

In each run there are many different situations being considered at any given time. No two runs are identical, and the judges are making their decisions based on the most obvious or most heavily weighted errors. The more skilled drivers end up being scrutinized more severely than we’ll say a beginner. That does NOT mean they are judged any differently than the beginner, it means their mistakes will not be as big or as obvious.

*Note:
Every judge should go into every round fresh, knowing anything can and will happen. There should be no predetermined winner in mind, or any type of performance expected. Every round is anyone’s to win. First timer or seasoned veteran, you just never know.

Example A – The Beginner
The typical beginner may have a hard time holding the qualifying line. There will probably be a lot of corrections, erratic driving, slowing when they shouldn’t, shallow angle, missed clips, etc.

The judges will take this all into account when making their decision. Although all this is going on throughout the run, the statement of, “They made a huge correction in turn 3”  or “They missed clip 2” may be stated by one of the judges. Basically pointing out something that is probably going to sway things the most. This doesn’t mean that is the only issue, it simply means that’s the one that stands out the most.

When the results are announced, either reason will probably be given. The long, itemized list of other errors will not.

Example B – The Veteran
The typical Veteran will be able to pull off some very decent runs. Maintaining the qualifying line is probably not an issue. Hitting clips, not an issue. Maintaining angle, not an issue. However, there will be some mistakes being made. Depending on who is competing, these errors may come into play.

When evaluating the run of the Veteran, the same exact things are being considered in Example A and B. ALL THE SAME RULES APPLY TO BOTH. The main difference is, the Veteran isn’t having issues with the qualifying line or erratic driving, but they are still being judged on it. If the Veteran manages to pull off a near perfect run, you may hear something such as, “Their angle was a bit shallow on clip 4” or “They had to reach a bit for clip 1” These are the key points that MAY come into play on the following run. This doesn’t mean that is the only thing they were being judged on, it simply means these are the “Worst” incidents of the run.

If on the following run this same driver cannot maintain proximity with the Lead Car, when their loss is announced, the reason given will be “The Chase did not maintain proximity”. The other points aren’t given, they were just observations “Just in case”.

Example C – How This Is Applied
When 2 competitors are closely matched in skill and ability, the judges need to be very critical of the performance of both, especially if both are capable of laying down near perfect runs. For arguments sake, we will say both Lead and Chase runs are identical with the exception of Lead Car “A” ALMOST missing a clip while Lead Car “B” was as deep as possible in the same clip.

After an extremely clean lead and chase, you might hear, “The only thing I saw was “A” almost missed clip 1.” Basically looking for anything that might sway the decision if it comes down to that.

If a One More Time “OMT” is not an option, the decision would be based on Lead Car “A” not following the qualifying line as well as Lead Car “B”. This in no way suggests they were judged any differently than any other competitor during the entire comp, it is simply judged that way based on the level of performance of both drivers. Both were held to the same standard as the competitor in Example A, but the key factor was not a factor in Example A.

Being a part of judging and listening in can be very beneficial to everyone. Competitors will learn exactly what is being looked at and why certain decisions are made. There is a lot of reasoning behind certain calls, and it can greatly affect decisions made during their runs.

My personal take on the issue presented, before anyone feels the judging was unfair toward them,  they need to ask themselves a few questions:

  • Could it be POSSIBLE I did what the judges called me on?
  • If roles were reversed, would I feel losing would be the correct call for me?
  • Can I see everything that is going on, and concentrate on driving?
  • Am I so good, I can see what I’m doing and what my competitor is doing at all times?
  • Do I know the rules better than the judges?
  • Is my opinion completely unbiased?

Remember guys, judging is not easy. If you think it is, then you definitely are not ready to judge. If you aren’t ready to judge,
THEN PLEASE LEAVE THE JUDGING TO THE JUDGES.